SF 427 
.B87 
Copy 1 



~MATEUR'S 
DOG BOOK 



A Book 



About the 

Management and i 
Training of Dogs , 






Price 91.00 



3 7 



AMATEUR'S DOG BOOK 



\ 



A TREATISE ON THE 



MANAGEMENT, TRAINING AND 
DISEASES OF DOGS 



By 

WILLIAM A. BRUETTE 

Kennel Department 

Aaverican Field 



ILLUSTRATED 



CHICAGO 

THE BLAKELY PRINTING CO. 

1906 



C<( 



{C\ 



LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two Codes Received 

FEB 15 1906 

^Coiwneht Entry 
CLASS,, Cu XXc No. 
' ^ COPY B. 



%&\ 



Copyrighted bv 

WILLIAM A. BRUETTE 

February, 1906 



CONTENTS. 

Foreword 9-10 

Care and Management 1 1-25 

Sleeping quarters and kennel — Bedding — Feed- 
ing — Watering — Washing — Exercise — Grooming — 
Fleas and lice. 

Training 26-55 

Effects of training — Benefits to the trainer — 
Training age — Training methods — Rewards and 
punishments — Teaching name — House breaking — 
Minding whistle — Training terms : Home, Kennel, 
Up, Quiet, No— Chummy dogs — To-ho — Drop — 
Heel — Guard — Staying . out of doors — Carrying — 
Fetching boots. 

Retrieving 57-8-2 

Best breeds for retrievers — Faults — Methods of 
training — Searching by scent — Trailing — Guided by 
hand — Water dogs — Overcoming fear of water — 
Retrieving from water — Life-saving dogs — Fetching 
a boat — Diving. 

Trick Dogs 83-112 

Best breeds — Selecting tricks — Shake hands — 
Sitting up — Shutting door — Opening door — Trust 
and paid for — Walking erect — Dancing — Jumping 
—Jumping Rope— Speaking— Dead dog— Bringing 
his tail — Climbing a ladder — Sneezing — Singing — 
Standing on forelegs. 

Guard and Watch Dogs 113-116 

Best breeds — How taught — Personal guards. 

Diseases of Dogs 1 17-157 

Determining the disease — Care, Diet and Nurs- 
ing — Distemper — Worms — Tapeworms — Chorea — 
Coughs — Diseases of the eye — Goiter — Indigestion 
— Constipation — Diarrhea — Mange — Eczema — Fits 
— Warts — Canker of the ear. 



FOREWORD. 

MAX discovered a good many thousand 
years ago that he needed a companion 
to guard him while he slept and assist 
him in his pursuits. He tried first a fellow 
man, but some proved dishonest, others untrust- 
worthy and all ungrateful ; and primitive man 
then obtained a dog, we know not when, or how, 
or where. Darwin said it was a conquest and 
Spencer added that it was the greatest conquest 
ever made by man. The dog proved honest, 
trustworthy and grateful, and the man and the 
dog conquered other animals by day and at 
night the dog guarded his master while he slept 
in the cave or rude hut he called his home. 

The mists of antiquity and unread geological 
drifts conceal the birth of this comradeship of 
the man who dressed in skins and hunted with 
a club and the wolfish-appearing animal which 
was the ancestor of the clogs of to-day, and the 
light of imagination flickers and dies out as it 
contemplates the probabilities of this partner- 
ship being broken. 

In the years that have intervened this com- 
radeship between man and dog has gone on 
until the present day finds them bound together 
so closely in love and obedience as to make the 



assertion that the dog is man's best friend an 
axiom. 

If the following chapters shall afford any aid 
or assistance to man in caring for his dog or 
enlarging its sphere of usefulness, the purpose 
for which this book was compiled will be 
abundantly secured. 




CARE AND MANAGEMENT. 

THE health and happiness of a dog depend 
upon its surroundings and the attention 
given its sleeping quarters, food, groom- 
ing, washing and habits of life, for a healthy 
dog which is forced to occupy dirty, vermin- 
infested quarters and subsist on unwholesome 
food, and which is seldom or never exercised, 
groomed or washed, will soon be in a miserable 
condition — dull, lifeless, rough-coated and out 
of sorts. 

SLEEPING QUARTERS. 

Every dog should be provided with sleeping 
quarters that he may consider his own. For a 
small pet dog a basket is all that is necessary, 
and for bedding there is nothing better than a 
folded Turkish towel, as it can be washed easily 
and kept clean. Women are partial to cushions 
for their pets. If these have removable linen 
covers that can be changed and washed two or 
three times a week, no objection need be raised 
to them, but the fancy velvet or plush covered 
affairs commonly used are abominable, as it is 
impossible to keep them clean. 

Large dogs which sleep in the house can be 
given a rug. This should be aired and dusted 
daily and washed at least once a week. Another 



12 



Amateur's Dog Book 



good bed is illustrated herewith, consisting of a 
wooden framework of suitable size and about 
six inches high, over which is tacked a piece of 
canvas or burlap, like the head of a drum. 

If a dog is kept out of doors it must be 
provided with a kennel. A very simple one 
may be made from a kerosene barrel, the ob- 
jectionable smell being removed by burning a 
handful of shavings in the barrel. This will ig- 




nite what remains of its past contents and the 
flames can be smothered by turning the open 
end of the barrel to the ground. With a piece 
of canvas hung over its front, that the dog can 
push to one side when going in or out, this 
will make a water and wind proof kennel that is 
free from^ crevices that harbor vermin. 

If it is concluded to have a carpenter con- 
struct a kennel — and it is always advisable to do 
so — the Vero Shaw model kennel possesses 



Amateur's Dog Book 



13 



many advantages over the ordinary affair with 
the door at one end. As seen by the illustration, 
the Vero Shaw kennel has a bench open in 





front, but protected at the sides and top, on 
which a dog can rest and enjoy the air. The 
top also can be raised and the sides taken apart, 



14 Amateur's Dog Book 

so as to permit of easy and thorough cleaning 
of the sleeping apartment. 

Whenever it is possible to do so, place the 
kennel under a shed that is open to the south 
or east. This will render it cooler in summer 
and warmer in winter, and in every way more 
comfortable than if the roof of the kennel be 
exposed directly to the elements. 

If a number of dogs are kept larger buildings 
must be provided, and instructions and sugges- 
tions for building them will be found in "Mod- 
ern Dog Breeding," a treatise devoted to the 
breeding, conditioning and exhibiting of dogs. 

Kennels should always be placed on clay or 
black soil, for fleas are very partial to and 
breed in the sand, and inmates of a kennel 
located on sandy soil are sure to be infested 
with fleas. 

If the dog is to be kept on a chain, a strong 
wire on which is an easily sliding ring should be 
stretched from a post near the kennel to another 
post or tree some distance away, so that by 
snapping the dog's chain to the sliding ring he 
will have greater opportunity to exercise than 
if he were chained to his kennel or post. In 
these days of cheap wire netting it is better to 
provide a dog with a yard in which he can exer- 
cise freely, as the constant tugging when on a 
chain sometimes affects a dog's throat and chest 
or the conformation of his shoulders. 




15 



i6 Amateur's Dog Book 

BEDDING. 

In warm weather a dog requires little or no 
bedding and is probably more comfortable on 
bare boards. During cold weather oat straw 
makes the warmest and most comfortable bed, 
as it does not mat and is free from the seeds 
and dust that are the chief objections to hay. 
During the fall and summer pine shavings 
make a good bedding, as they are objectionable 
to fleas, and this property can be intensified by 
sprinkling them with turpentine. In flea-infested 
sections some breeders mix tobacco scraps with 
the bedding. Another excellent practice is to 
lay a strip of tarred paper under the bedding. 
Every morning the bedding should be stirred 
up and examined. If it is dusty, damp, dirty 
or packed down, it should be renewed, and to 
insure its being fresh should be changed once a 
week, at least. 

FEEDING. 

The dog is a carnivorous animal and in a 
state of nature lives on an all-meat diet. 
Domestication and association with man have 
so altered its organs of digestion that it now 
thrives best on a mixed diet — one containing 
both meat, grains and vegetables. Meat does 
not affect the scent of a dog nor does it cause 
germ diseases or worms, as is frequently stated, 
and a doe which has sufficient exercise would 



Amateur's Dog Book 17 

thrive on an all-meat diet. But when the life 
led is artificial and the opportunities for exercise 
limited the danger from feeding too much meat 
lies in the fact that meat is so stimulating that 
it loads the system with impurities that the 
organs of the body are unable to eliminate, 
thereby resulting in diseases of the skin. 

Dogs should be fed twice a day. In the morn- 
ing give a light meal, consisting preferably of 
one or two Spratt's Dog Biscuits. These should 
be fed dry, so that the dog will gnaw at them, 
thereby stimulating the secretion of saliva that is 
important to insure complete digestion. Feed a 
heavy meal at night, allowing the animal to eat 
until satisfied, for a dog always sleeps best on a 
full stomach. Dogs should never be allowed to 
nose over their food. As soon as they show 
that they have had enough the remnants of the 
meal should be immediately removed. 

Feeding time affords the owner a favorable 
opportunity of informing himself as to the 
health of his dogs. If a dog does not eat his 
evening meal with the usual gusto, take it away 
and let him fast until the next day. Then try 
him again, and if he still refuses to eat, or only 
noses his food, consider him sick and take means 
to restore him to health. All that most cases 
require are a few doses of Dent's Pepsinated 
Condition Pills. If the bowels are constipated 
and the liver is out of order, it may be necessary 



18 Amateur's Dog Book 

to give one of Dent's Laxative Pills, to insure 
a good cleansing of the system. Cases due to 
worms or distemper should be given proper 
treatment. 

Pet dogs suffer from overfeeding and the 
promiscuous use of sweets and candies that 
produce indigestion and other ailments. The 
proper diet for them is Spratt's Pet Dog Bis- 
cuits, stale or toasted bread and milk, a little 
well-cooked, lean meat, beef broths, etc., with 
an occasional bone of good size. 

If but one or two dogs are kept table scraps, 
if fresh, not too highly seasoned and free from 
chicken or fish bones, make a satisfactory and 
wholesome diet. 

Where a number of dogs are kept an excellent 
food can be prepared by boiling sheep or beef 
heads until soft and then thickening the liquor 
in which they were boiled with stale bread, 
crackers, vegetables and meal. 

Nearly all dogs are fond of boiled liver, and 
it can be given with good results once or twice 
a week, as it has a very desirable laxative effect 
upon the bowels. 

Spratt's Dog Biscuits have come into general 
use in the last few years, and although some 
dogs refuse to eat them, a little tact and per- 
severance upon the part of the owner will ac- 
custom the dog to them. They form a very 



Amateur's Dog Book 19 

satisfactory diet and the trouble of feeding is 
reduced to the minimum. 

Puppies can be weaned by dipping their noses 
into a pan of milk. They proceed to lick the 
milk off from their noses and soon learn to lap 
it. They should be fed at least six times a day 
on milk that has been scalded ; to it can gradu- 
ally be added broken crackers and other solid 
food. Sour milk also should be given two 
or three times a week, as it is a preventative of 
worms. 

WATERING. 

Dogs can go several days without food and 
escape serious consequences, but any restriction 
in their supply of drinking water will be fol- 
lowed by eruptions of the skin and a disgusting 
odor from the body. It is therefore important 
that dogs have before them at all times an un- 
failing supply of fresh water. During warm 
weather this must be frequently changed, to 
insure its being cool and pure. Earthenware 
crocks make good drinking vessels, as they can 
be kept clean without much labor, and are not 
easily tipped over. No benefit is derived from 
placing a lump of sulphur in the water, as 
sulphur is a mineral that will not dissolve in 
water. 

WASHING. 

Dogs from time to time require washing to 
remove the accumulations of dirt and the fine 



20 Amateur's Dog Book 

scales that the skin is constantly exfoliating'. 
By adding proper insecticides to the water in 
which the clogs are washed, the fleas and lice 
which ordinarily infest dogs will be destroyed, 
diseases of the skin will be prevented and the 
comfort of the dog correspondingly promoted. 

The use of proper soap stimulates the growth 
of the hair, removes the objectionable cloggy 
smell and improves the appearance. 

When washing dogs every precaution should 
be taken to prevent the animal contracting cold. 
If the bath is to be given out of doors during 
the summer, a warm, sunshiny day should be 
selected ; if in the house, see that the room is 
properly heated, and do not allow the animal to 
enter the open air until the coat and skin are 
thoroughly dry. In washing large breeds, such 
as St. Bernards, they can be placed on some 
clean surface ; collies and setters can be placed 
in an ordinary tub, while a footpan answers for 
small dogs. Fill the receptacle with lukewarm 
water as high as the clog's knees ; to this add 
Dent's Germicide in the proportion of a table- 
spoonful to the gallon, as it softens the water, 
destroys all insects and germs, and assists in 
cleansing the skin. The animal's coat should 
then be moistened all over, beginning at the 
neck and shoulders, either pouring on the 
water from a small tin cup or using a sponge. 
Dent's Dog Soap should then be rubbed well 



22 Amateur's Dog Book 

into the coat, more water gradually added, and 
the animal carefully rubbed until a profuse 
lather is produced. The head should be washed 
last and care exercised that soap or water does 
not gain entrance to the ears or eyes. Allow 
the lather to remain on a few moments and 
then rinse off with clean water, to which Dent's 
Germicide has been added in the proportion of 
from one to three tablespoonfuls to the gallon. 

The animal must now be carefully dried with 
a coarse towel, those made from a salt sack 
cut into suitable sizes being efficient and durable. 

Even after a dog has been thoroughly dried 
there is danger of its taking cold, and while 
most authorities advise giving a freshly washed 
dog a warm kennel or a bed before the fire, a 
better procedure is to blanket it lightly and 
induce it to exercise for fifteen or twenty min- 
utes. The natural warmth of the body, in- 
duced by exercise and retained by a blanket, 
will restore the natural circulation quicker than 
artificial heat. If the weather is such that the 
dog cannot be safely exercised out of doors, ex- 
ercise him in a warm room and give him a warm 
bed of clean straw. A good meal at this time will 
nourish him and stimulate his powers of resist- 
ance. Therefore, the best time to wash a dog 
is about one hour before feeding time. 

When washing long-haired toy breeds, such 
as Yorkshires, use Dent's Quinine Shampoo. 



Amateur's Dog Book 23 

A small quantity should be dissolved in a pan 
of water. Place the dog in the pan and cleanse 
his coat by brushing him with a long-handled 
hair brush kept saturated with the soapy water. 
By preserving the part of the hair down the 
dog's back, all danger of snarling the coat will 
be avoided. Rinse in clear water and dry by 
brushing before a fire with two or more ordi- 
nary hair brushes that can be alternately 
warmed and used. 

When washing collies it is advisable to dis- 
solve the soap in the water instead of applying 
it directly to the dog's coat, and in drying this 
breed brush the hair the wrong way and force 
the air into the coat with a fan. 

The best preparation on the market for wash- 
ing dogs is Dent's Dog Soap, as it stimulates 
the roots of the hair, increases the glossiness 
of the coat and contains ingredients destructive 
to insect life that will destroy fleas and cure 
most of the simple diseases of the skin. 

EXERCISE. 

Dogs require plenty of exercise and unless 
they get it are unhealthy and liable to attacks 
of skin diseases, indigestion, constipation and 
other bowel complaints. Some of the active 
breeds, like collies and setters, will get all the 
exercise they require if turned loose for a 
thirty-minute run, twice a day. Large breeds 
like St. Bernards are not so easilv taken care of. 



24 Amateur's Dog Book 

They require a slow walk for at least an hour 
every day, and if it is not given them their 
bones and muscles do not develop properly. 
Pet dogs such as toy spaniels or pugs should 
be given a run every day, and it is an excellent 
idea to teach them to chase a rubber ball in- 
doors, as in this way they can be given con- 
siderable exercise. On returning from exercis- 
ing a dog, don't forget to examine his feet for 
cuts, pieces of glass, thorns or splinters. 

GROOMING. 

There is an old stable adage that a grooming 
is worth more than a feed. This is also true 
of dogs. A dog should be' brushed and rubbed 
down every day. Brushes and combs are, of 
course, useful implements for removing snarls 
and burrs, but after the coat is straightened 
out and the snarls removed, nothing is so good 
for putting on the finish as the naked hand, and 
a little care of this kind will work wonders in 
a dog's appearance. 

FLEAS AND LICE. 

Fleas are the greatest annoyance dogs have 
to contend with. The common flea does not 
lay her eggs on the dog, as commonly sup- 
posed, but in piles of rubbish, cracks in the 
floor, carpets and rugs. These eggs hatch out 
in about four weeks, and jump upon the first 
dog that comes their way. The lather from 



Amateur's Dog Book 25 

Dent's Dog Soap is sure death to fleas and lice ; 
but if the dog is returned to flea-infested quar- 
ters, he will promptly accumulate another crop. 
The importance of keeping the yard and kennel 
clean and the necessity of using some good dis- 
infectant are evident. In our opinion Dent's 
Germicide is the best for kennel use. It is 
non-poisonous, inexpensive and mixes freely 
with water, forming a clean, milky solution. 
To properly disinfect a kennel sweep up and 
burn all old bedding and rubbish and then scrub 
the walls and woodwork with a strong solution 
of Dent's Germicide. Sprinkle it about the 
yards, and over the sleeping quarters and wood- 
work, and use it in washing the drinking and 
feeding pans. This treatment will effectually 
destroy all fleas and lice, and the deodorizing 
gas it throws off as it slowly evaporates de- 
stroys germs and purifies the air. 



TRAINING. 

THE power of speech is the only limit to 
the possibilities of a dog's education, for 
amiability, rare intelligence, powers of 
reasoning and wonderful instincts are coupled 
with a devotion to and faithfulness for its 
master that prompt it to obey his every wish, 
and as a result the human race in all ages 
and under all conditions has looked upon the 
dog with a friendly eye, cultivated his com- 
panionship and by training has adapted his 
powers and instincts to various uses. It is 
stated by authorities on agricultural sub- 
jects that without the trained collie sheep rais- 
ing in large sections of the Highlands of Scot- 
land could not be profitably conducted. In the 
far North commercial connections and explora- 
tions are possible only through the hardihood 
of the Eskimo Huskie, and field sports without 
carefully broken dogs would prove tame and un- 
interesting and degenerate into mere butchery. 

The education of a dog which is intended as a 
house pet or companion is fully as important as 
that of the breeds previously mentioned, for a 
carefully trained dog is a far more agreeable and 
useful companion than one which is allowed to 
grow up without proper attention to the develop- 
26 



Amateur's Dog Book 27 

ment of his mental powers and instincts, and a 
man who loves dogs and has come into possession 
of a valuable puppy should no more think of neg- 
lecting its education than he would that of his 
children. 

EFFECTS OF TRAINING. 

Under training a dog's appearance improves 
and it acquires a knowing, keen, sagacious ap- 
pearance that distinguishes it from the heavy, 
stupid expression and sleepy looks of one whose 
education has been neglected, and there is no ex- 
cuse for a man or woman owning a dog which 
will not come when called, which barks at horses 
and strangers, climbs over you with muddy paws, 
kills chickens, tears up carpets and curtains and 
conducts itself generally like a spoiled child, 
when by a little early training it could have been 
taught to come promptly at command, walk 
quietly at heel, lie down at a word, retrieve from 
land or water, guard any object that may be 
given it, go on errands, bring your slippers or 
paper, do little tricks that amuse its master and 
his friends and conduct itself decorously and 
mannerly, so that everyone will admire it. 

BENEFITS TO THE TRAINER. 

The man who spends much time on the train- 
ing of a dog profits by the experience, for he 
gains a knowledge of self he never quite had be- 
fore and develops a spirit of patience and self- 



28 Amateur's Dog Book 

control that will be of benefit to him in his con- 
tact with his fellow men and in the everyday 
transactions of life. Time thus spent is espe- 
cially profitable as it applies to children, for they 
all like dogs and it is as natural for little boys 
and girls to want a dog as it is for them to play. 
They enjoy the proprietorship as well as com- 
panionship, and bestow their affections on their 
pets so completely as to develop a fellow feeling 
and kindliness of spirit that will make them 
better men and women, and if they are encour- 
aged and instructed to train their pets to do use- 
ful and amusing tricks thev will learn a valuable 
lesson in patience and self-control. 

TRAINING AGE. 

A dog, like a child, must have a period of in- 
fancy, but do not defer its lessons until the 
period of youth fulness has passed. There is 
considerable difference in the time required for 
development in the various breeds. Small dogs 
are fully developed in less than one year, medium- 
sized dogs in from ten to eighteen months, while 
the St. Bernards and other large dogs require 
about two years to attain their full growth. 
Females usually develop faster and learn easier 
than males. The training of a high-spirited dog 
of one of the medium-sized varieties may be 
begun when it is four or five months old ; that 
of one of the toy breeds should be started about 



Amateur's Dog Book 29 

a month or so earlier, and of a St. Bernard, 
Great Dane or other large breed a couple of 
months later. 

TRAINING METHODS. 

All the lessons are rudimentary, short, gentle 
and easy, and should be taught in a way that 
does not altogether check the pupil's spirit of 
playfulness, although his trainer must be careful 
not to indulge too freely in play. The main 
consideration at first is to give the dog a slight 
idea of what control really is and to encourage a 
desire to please you ; care, however, must be 
exercised that the lessons are not continued so 
long as to tire and disgust the pupil. 

A puppy's first lesson must be given when you 
are alone, as in no other way can you hope to 
hold his attention ; ten minutes at a time is long 
enough for a lesson, repeated three or four 
times a day, and if there are any signs of tiring 
or disgust end the instruction sooner. The 
trainer will be obliged to exercise considerable 
judgment in deciding where the attention to the 
lesson ends and is succeeded by sulkiness. Inas- 
much as the lessons should be carried on so as to 
interest the dog and with some regard to its 
pleasure, it is advisable to reward your pupil 
after each lesson with some tid-bit, such as a 
small piece of boiled liver. 

The training of dogs and children is accom- 



30 Amateur's Dog Book 

plished along the same general lines, as neither 
must be forced or crowded ; interest must be 
stimulated by words of encouragement or re- 
wards, and attention to the task at hand enforced 
by gentle and carefully gloved firmness. The 
first lesson should be so administered as to make 
it easier to inculcate the second, and a feeling of 
regard and confidence between teacher and pupil 
should be cultivated at all times. 

In training dogs, the fact should always be 
borne in mind that a puppy which has lived in 
the world only five or six months has not had a 
very lengthy opportunity to gain knowledge of 
the world's affairs and its brain is as yet unde- 
veloped. We do not expect any display of in- 
telligence in a child five or six months old and 
it is unreasonable to expect more of a dog of that 
age than you would of a child several times as 
old. Simply bear in mind that a puppy is anxious 
to please you, and as soon as his little, unde- 
veloped, playful brain comprehends what you 
want he will do it. It may test your own pa- 
tience and intelligence to make him understand 
your wishes, but perseverance and kindness will 
attain the desired result. 

If your dog is kept in a kennel or on a chain, 
let him have a good run to loosen up his joints 
and work off some of his enthusiasm before you 
start in with his lessons. 




31 



32 Amateur's Dog Book 

If you have come into possession of a timid 
puppy, which is afraid of loud noises or new 
scenes, do not attempt to train him until he over- 
comes his nervousness. The best way to do this 
is to take your dog around with you to different 
places where there are loud noises. If the puppy 
is only a little fellow, pick him up in your arms 
and hold him, but do not talk to him or pet him 
too much. Dogs are very observing animals 
and pay a great deal of attention to your actions, 
and if you begin to pet a young or timid dog 
every time he hears a new noise, he will believe 
from your actions that there is really something 
to fear ; if, however, you pay no attention to the 
noise, he will be impressed by your lack of con- 
cern and soon come to the conclusion that there 
is nothing to fear. 

REWARDS AND PUNISHMENTS. 

A young puppy, that is, one under four or five 
months of age, should never be whipped — a good 
scolding will answer the purpose better — and in 
talking to your dog do not confuse him by shout- 
ing or yelling at him, and above all do not give 
two or three different commands without giving 
him time to understand or obey any one of them. 
Always speak in your ordinary tone of voice and 
go about things coolly and rationally, remember- 
ing you have plenty of time and that what the 
puppy does not learn to-day may be inculcated 



Amateur's Dog Book 33 

to-morrow. Always use the same words in or- 
dering a dog to do the same things. The impor- 
tance of doing this cannot be too forcibly im- 
pressed upon all those who desire to attain suc- 
cess in training. 

The whip should be used sparingly, and never 
even scold a dog, much less whip him, unless 
you are absolutely confident that the dog knows 
what he is being punished for. When you whip 
a dog, and it is seldom necessary to do so, apply 
the lash slowly and deliberately, with well marked 
intervals between each stroke, and let the last 
stroke be the lightest, giving the dog plenty of 
time for reflection before continuing the walk or 
lesson or allowing him to do anything else. Do 
not whip a dog and then get effusive ; let him 
reason it out for himself and conduct yourself 
quietly, and your pupil will most likely crawl 
up to you. If then given a kindly word or a pat 
on the head he will go on with the work or les- 
son with a distinct remembrance of having been 
detected in the commission of a fault and of 
being punished for committing it, and you 
will have retained his confidence and affection, 
which are absolutely necessary for success. 

It is all very well to praise a dog after he has 
obeyed you or has performed some trick, but 
never praise him while performing ; keep quiet 
until he has finished and then bestow your favor. 



34 Amateur's Dog Book 

A dog which is spoken to while obeying a com- 
mand often becomes confused and takes his mind 
off his work, thinking he has completed the act 
and is receiving praise for having done so, and 
so breaks off right in the middle. This happens 
often in retrieving ; your dog may be coming to 
you and would do so if you let him alone, but if 
you speak he is apt to drop the object he is carry- 
ing and come -to you on the run. 

TEACHING A DOG ITS NAME. 

By simply addressing your dog with any par- 
ticular name he will in a short time recognize it 
and answer to it. If you have several dogs it is 
a good idea to teach each its distinctive title as 
soon as possible, as it will assist you in manag- 
ing them. This is easily accomplished, as all you 
need to do is to hand-feed your dogs for a few 
days. Have their food cut into small morsels, 
call each dog by name to receive its allowance, 
and see that no other dog gets it ; if any of the 
others come, send them back. 

When out for a walk allow your dogs to range 
freely and then call one of them by name and 
when he comes hand him a tid-bit, then repeat 
this action until all have been served. A repeti- 
tion of these lessons will cause your dogs to be- 
come thoroughly familiar with their names and 
they will come willingly upon being called. 



Amateur's Dog Book 35 

HOUSE BREAKING. 

This is the first lesson that should be taught a 
dog. Dogs are naturally clean animals, but pup- 
pies, like children, are thoughtless. It is an ab- 
solute necessity that dogs which are to be kept 
in the house should be clean in their habits, and 
any mistakes they may make after they are eight 
or ten weeks old should receive prompt attention 
and correction. Of course, a two-month-old 
puppy is too young to be whipped ; if it makes a 
mistake call its attention to what it has done and 
then immediately put it out of the house, and in 
a few days it will probably understand why it 
was put out. If this does not produce the de- 
sired effect, wait until you catch it in the act and 
rub its nose in the mess it has made, and after 
scolding put it out of the house. A young puppy 
must never be punished unless caught in the act, 
if the proper effect is desired. An old, hardened 
offender may be switched, but the whip as a rule 
should be used sparingly, as there is always dan- 
ger of confusing and cowing a dog. 

In teaching dogs cleanliness, give them op- 
portunities for emptying themselves. If not so 
provided with an opportunity nature's necessities 
will compel them to relieve themselves where 
they are kept, and it would be unreasonable to 
punish a dog for what it could not help. All 
dogs should be taken out of doors the last thing 



36 Amateur's Dog Book 

at night and the first thing in the morning and 
during the day several times, as opportunities of 
this kind are absolutely necessary if they are to 
be kept in good health. 

MINDING THE WHISTLE. 

As a rule it does not take very long to train a 
dog to come to the whistle. Always use the same 
whistle, and it is advisable to blow it in a pe- 
culiar way, so that the pupil will learn to under- 
stand its meaning. You must be careful about 
punishing a dog for not obeying the whistle. A 
good way to teach a dog to obey promptly is to 
take him out for a run just before he has had 
his dinner and when he is keen with hunger, as 
he will probably range away. When he is some 
distance away blow a sharp blast of the whistle, 
and, if necessary, call him in, and when he re- 
turns hand him a piece of meat. Repeat this 
several times during your walk, and after a repe- 
tition of this lesson for a few days he will ap- 
preciate the meaning of the call and return to 
you as soon as he hears the whistle. It is possi- 
ble to elaborate upon this branch of his training 
and teach him to obey a series of blasts as : 
Stop at one blast, drop at two blasts, or come 
in on three. Old, stubborn dogs sometimes re- 
fuse to obey the whistle and must be forced to do 
so, and this is accomplished by the use of the 
check cord, which will be described later. 



Amateur's Dog Book 37 

"Home" or "Go Home" are words that every 
dog should understand and should be taught to 
obey. Begin by allowing the puppy to follow 
you only a short distance, fifty or sixty feet, then 
turn around and order him back home, if neces- 
sary, advancing toward him threateningly, and 
he will most likely scamper back. The distance 
can be gradually increased until he will under- 
stand and obey the order, no matter how far 
away you may be from your residence. 

"Kennel Up" is a term that explains itself, and 
there is no difficulty in teaching a dog to go to 
his kennel when he hears it a few times and has 
been chased into his kennel with a light switch. 
If he sleeps in the house, the word basket or bed 
can be substituted for kennel. 

"Quiet." Dogs are prone to be noisy, and when 
they bark too often or keep it up longer than 
necessary at the approach of a stranger or upon 
hearing a strange noise, they should be cautioned 
with the word quiet, repeated several times, 
and, if necessary, enforced with a switch. 

"No" is a most useful word in the vocabulary 
of either dog or man, and your dog must be 
taught its meaning, if he is to be a useful and 
pleasant companion. Whenever he does any- 
thing that you do not want him to do say "no." 
If he is out with you on the street and attempts 
to pick up any refuse call out "no" sternly and 




38 



Amateur's Dog Book 39 

order him to you ; if he does not come, go to him 
and scold him and then lead him away. If he 
does not profit by your scolding switch him and 
repeat the switching at every repetition of the 
act. 

Some dogs are too friendly with everyone they 
meet, and while you want your dog to be good- 
natured and pleasant, you do not want him to 
mix promiscuously, as he will be apt to follow 
some stranger or be easily stolen. To teach one 
of these promiscuous mixers and chummy dogs 
to exercise more discretion in the way he makes 
up with people, have a few strangers chase him 
away. This will alarm him and he will hustle 
back to you for protection, and will soon develop 
more or less suspicion of strangers and give you 
more of his affection. This must be done care- 
fully, because if he is chased back too often or 
is scared too much he will become a timid dog. 

TO- HO. 

This is one of the first lessons that should be 
taught a dog and is one that is interesting and 
not in the least difficult to teach, simply requiring 
patience and time, and will serve as the ground- 
work for many other lessons. , It consists in mak- 
ing a dog stand still at command, and you can 
begin teaching it to a puppy four or five months 
old. The puppy to be taught should have a light 
cord fastened to his collar and his meal set down 



40 Amateur's Dog Book 

in front of him. He will immediately rush to- 
ward the food, but must be held back and the 
word "to-ho" uttered, not loudly, but distinctly; 
hold the pupil in this position and re- 
peat the word several times so as to impress it 
on him. When he stops tugging at the check 
cord and settles clown a little say "on" and al- 
low him to go on and finish his meal. 

In giving the second lesson allow the puppy to 
about half finish the meal, then hold him back 
from the dish two or three feet and say "to- 
ho" several times, and after he quiets down al- 
low him. to finish his meal. Practice this lesson 
twice a day until there is a thorough understand- 
ing on the part of the puppy as to what is ex- 
pected of him. 

The next step is to toss a piece of meat down 
in front of the puppy and say "to-ho," and 
this lesson should be repeated until he will not 
move up to take the morsel unless ordered to do 
so by the word "on." Then throw the meat 
some distance away, and as the youngster starts 
for it say "to-ho ;" keep him standing a mo- 
ment, then say "on," allowing him to advance 
a short distance, and then stop him again with 
"to-ho." It will require a long time and 
numerous lessons to attain perfection, but as a 
primary lesson in obedience it is worth the 
trouble. By holding up the right hand when 



Amateur's Dog Book 41 

uttering the word "to-ho" the dog will associate 
the two and will in time learn to stop at the 
upraised hand. 

DROP. 

This is another early lesson that considerable 
time must be spent on. Do not expect to get a 
young dog to lie down nicely in two or' three 
lessons ; it is better to spend three or four weeks 
in perfecting him. It is comparatively easy to 
teach a dog to lie down, but the owner must be 
very careful not to display any temper or undue 
harshness, as there is always danger of cowing 
a timid dog. 

Call your dog to you, place one hand on his 
back over the hindquarters, the other on the neck 
or shoulders, and gently but firmly force him to 
the ground, meanwhile repeating the word 
"drop." Of course, he will struggle some, and 
after you get him down will probably roll over 
on his back, but this should not cause discourage- 
ment. Repeat this operation two or three times 
a day, and after a few lessons the puppy will 
probably crouch a little when you place your 
hand on his shoulder, and day by day will go 
down a little easier, and soon will begin to 
crouch as soon as he hears the word, even if your 
hand is not on him, and finally will drop as soon 
as he hears the word "drop." 

After this has been accomplished you can be- 




42 



Amateur's Dog Book 43 

gin to pay attention to the position the dog is in 
while down, which should be with the body 
straight out and the head between the front feet. 
We do not advocate this position exactly, and it 
is often preferable to allow the puppy to assume 
a position that is comfortable and more or less 
peculiar to him. After he will drop at the word 
of command and when close to you, back away 
slowly ami walk around him in gradually in- 
creasing circles, and if he moves take him back 
to where he moved from and make him drop, and 
perhaps give him a cuff with your hand. After 
lie will keep at a drop while you move :;11 around 
begin teaching him to drop while at a distance 
from you. At first call out "drop" when ten 
or twelve feet away : he will probably come in 
close to you before obeying, but make him re- 
turn to where he was when the order was first 
given and stay down for two or three minutes. 
After being taught to drop promptly gradually 
increase the distance until he will drop at com- 
mand anywhere within the sound of your voice. 
The next lesson is the most difficult, and that 
is to teach a puppy to stay at drop while you go 
out of sight. You can accomplish this best by 
making him lie down in the yard, while you walk 
away or hide behind a fence, and if he starts to 
move speak to him sharply. This can be fol- 
lowed by going into the house or barn for a 




AT HEEL 



44 



Amateur's Dog Book 45 

minute or two and gradually increasing the 
length of time you are out of sight. 

HEEL. 

It is quite important that all dogs be taught to 
walk at heel quietly, particularly those which are 
kept in the city. This is not a difficult lesson 
and can be as easily taught to an old dog as to a 
puppy ; in fact, there is considerable danger of 
cowing puppies by enforcing this command at 
too early an age or being too strict with them. 
Puppies are naturally restless creatures with an 
inquisitiveness that leads them everywhere, and 
this to a certain extent should be encouraged. 
Of course, endless trouble will be provoked if 
you allow a young dog to chase about when you 
are threading your way through crowded streets 
or among horses and wagons, or through care- 
fully kept gardens, and at such times a light lead 
should be slipped around the dog's neck or at- 
tached to his collar. He will probably want to 
run in front of you, and if only four or five 
months old, or of a very timid disposition, should 
be encouraged to do so, but if a courageous fel- 
low and eight or ten months old, call him behind 
you or to your side and hold him there by short- 
ening your grip on the lead, at the same time tap- 
ping him very gently on the nose with a switch 
whenever he tries to go ahead too fast, repeating 
the word "heel." 



46 Amateur's Dog Book 

GUARD. 

As the pupil advances in age and intelligence 
he can be gradually taught accomplishments, such 
as guarding any object that may be placed in 
front of him. For the first lesson have him drop 
either in a room or yard and place before him a 
glove or handkerchief of your own or a ball or 
some object that he has been in the habit of play- 
ing with, and say "guard." Do not make a dog 
stay at this lesson too long at a time, but go 
through it every day and repeat the word 
"guard" until he will stay with and watch 
the object you leave until you relieve him of his 
duty. 

STAYING OUT OF DOORS. 

This useful performance is one of the last les- 
sons to be taught a young dog and considerable 
time will be necessary in perfecting the pupil. 
It is often necessary to take a dog out in stormy 
weather or when the ground is muddy, and at 
such times it is very undesirable to admit him to 
the house until he is dry or while his paws are 
encrusted with mud. If he has been taught to 
guard, it will only be necessary to throw some 
object with which he is familiar on the porch or 
veranda, and make him drop in front of it and 
guard it. Go inside and watch him, and if the 
dog shows any inclination to leave his position 
speak to him sternly, and if he slinks away bring 



Amateur's Dog Book 



47 



him back and scold him, then leave him in his 
old position and go into the house and again 
watch him. Do not keep the puppy at this too 
long at first ; if he will stay where you leave him 
for two or three minutes after the first five or 
six lessons he is doing well and in time can be 
taught to wait for hours. 

CARRYING. 

The larger breeds of dogs, such as the St. 
Bernards, retrievers, mastiffs or Great Danes, 
can be taught easily to carry objects, such as 
baskets or parcels, and really seem to enjoy 
doing so. A dog which is perfectly drilled in 
this accomplishment will promptly pick up and 
hold anything that is given or pointed out to him 
or that he may be sent after, and will let go of it 
only when told to do so. A dog which will drop 
the article he is carrying when you stop walking, 
or one which is slow about relinquishing his hold 
or has to have his mouth opened before he will 
let go, is imperfectly trained. Most dogs like 
to carry things, but those which do not can be 
taught to do so. This can be accomplished by 
placing the article you wish carried in the mouth 
and holding it there with one hand while leading 
the dog along a few steps, then praising and re- 
warding him for doing so. If the dog will not 
open his mouth promptly pass the right hand over 
the jaws and with the thumb on one side and the 




OPENING HIS MOUTH 



48 



Amateur's Dog Book 49 

fingers on the other force his lips against his 
teeth ; this will cause him to open his mouth and 
the object you wish carried can be inserted ; 
then make him hold it by supporting the lower 
jaw with one hand while you stroke his head 
with the other. The hand that supports the 
lower jaw should gradually give it less and less 
support and be moved back toward the neck 
until finally you are simply stroking the lower 
jaw, and then remove the hand altogether. The 
pupil must be carefully watched, and if he shows 
any inclination to let go of the object he must 
be prevented from doing so by promptly sup- 
porting the lower jaw. 

After the dog will hold the object you give him 
he can be made to take a few steps, gradually in- 
creasing the distance, but whenever he lets go 
of the object promptly replace it. Be careful not 
to give him articles to carry that are too heavy ; 
praise him when he does well and be sure not to 
continue the lessons too long, or make him carry 
articles so far that he becomes tired. As you 
progress in these lessons accustom him to giving 
up the article he is carrying at command with- 
out mouthing it. 

To teach your dog not to give the article to 
anyone but yourself, get a stranger to attempt 
to take it, and have him start back as he does so ; 
this, as a rule, will make a dog refuse to give up 




50 



Amateur's Dog Book 51 

whatever he may be holding - . You should then 
come up, praise the dog, take the object from him 
and reward him. If the dog should give it up to 
the stranger, have him instructed to walk rapidly 
away without bestowing a word or a look upon 
the dog. You should then come up and ask the 
dog for the object and by your actions express 
your displeasure at his having lost it. After your 
pupil has become proficient and reliable in carry- 
ing ordinary articles you can begin giving him 
articles to carry that are of delicate construction 
or of a fragile nature, and teach him to be care- 
ful not to tear or injure them. He can then be 
taught to carry a basket by the handle and other 
objects. 

The smaller breeds, such as terriers, have 
neither the strength nor the inclination to carry 
things possessed by the larger breeds. However, 
they can be taught to carry a glove or handker- 
chief simply as an accomplishment. 

An easy way to go about teaching this lesson 
to a small' dog. is to shake a glove so as to at- 
tract his attention ; he will most likely want to 
grab it, and should be allowed to do so and en- 
couraged to walk with it. He will probably 
shake and worry it, and while this should not be 
encouraged it cannot be altogether stopped, as 
you are working with the puppy in what he con- 
siders a spirit of play. If he will follow with it 



52 Amateur's Dog Book 

in his mouth as you move on, very good, and if 
he should drop it, pick it up and shake it before 
him again and encourage him to take hold of it, 
and as soon as he does, start off again and induce 
him to follow with it. Continue these lessons 
two or three times a day for five or ten minutes 
at a time, discontinuing them so soon as the pupil 
shows signs of tiring. 

FETCHING BOOTS OR SLIPPERS. 

A dog which has been well trained in carrying 
can be taught to bring your boots or slippers or 
to take them away and deposit them in their 
proper places. In teaching a dog to perform 
this service it is important that you have some 
particular place where you keep your boots or 
slippers. Take off your boots in one of the other 
rooms, have your pupil pick them up one at a 
time, and go with him while he carries them to 
the place in which you are accustomed to leaving 
them ; he should be taught to leave the boots 
there and pick up one or both of your slippers 
and carry them to your library or sitting room, 
where you should put them on. After he has 
been practiced at this for a few days or until he 
knows what is expected of him, give him one of 
your boots and have someone he is accustomed 
to call him to the place where you usually leave 
your boots, and when he arrives there tell him to 
put the boot down in its proper place. He should 




53 



54 Amateur's Dog Book 

then be given a slipper, and you should call him 
to you and relieve him of the slipper and give 
him the other boot, when your assistant should 
then call him back, make him deposit the second 
boot and give him the other slipper to carry to 
you. After your dog becomes proficient in carry- 
ing your boots and slippers he can be taught to 
get your cane, hat, gloves or any other familiar 
articles. 

You can also teach your dog to go to the cor- 
ner newsboy or newsstand for a paper. At the 
start give him a penny to carry while you walk 
to the newsstand, and when you arrive there in- 
struct the dog to give the money to the newsman 
and have him give the dog a folded paper, which 
he should carry home. By going through this 
performance with him day after day and praising 
and rewarding him when you get home he will 
soon take an interest in the transaction, and you 
can then teach him to go alone by giving him a 
penny to carry as usual and going with him 
nearly to the newsstand and letting him run 
ahead alone ; and by gradually remaining farther 
and farther in the rear he can finally be sent 
alone to get a paper. 

You can also teach a dog to pick up anything 
you may drop while walking on the street. To do 
this, when walking, drop a glove that your dog 
has been accustomed to carrying and walk along: 



Amateur's Dog Book 55 

as if you did not know what had happened. If 
he picks it up let him carry it a short distance 
and then turn around as if you had discovered 
your loss, and when you see him carrying it re- 
lieve him of it and praise and reward him. If 
the dog fails to pick up the glove, go on a short 
distance, then show by your actions that you 
have lost something and go back with him and 
look for it ; and when you find it let him pick it 
up and carry it a distance. Repeat this lesson 
until he will pick up anything of yours that he 
sees you drop or that he discovers. He can be 
taught also to pick up and carry anything you 
may point out to him and work simply by signals. 




56 



R 



RETRIEVING. 

ETRIEVING is the most useful accom- 
plishment that a dog can be taught, and 
it is a feat which all breeds of dogs 
are more or tess capable of performing. Of 
course, toy dogs and house dogs cannot 
be expected to do much more than retrieve 
a ball or glove in the house and on the 
lawn, but the larger breeds, such as retrievers, 
spaniels and setters, which have keen powers of 
scent are used by shooters in retrieving game 
from land or water, while Newfoundlands, St. 
Bernards and other powerful breeds make effi- 
cient life-savers, and collies and rough-coated 
terriers afford their owners and friends a great 
deal of amusement and occasionally are really 
useful while rambling along a stream or lake. 

There is a decided difference of opinion as to 
what constitutes a retriever. Some men believe 
their dogs are retrievers if they will chase after 
a ball or stick, pick it up and bring it back in an 
uncertain way and then lay it down a few feet 
away. This in no sense of the word denotes a 
finished retriever ; in fact, it is only rudimentary 
fetching, and the dog which will simply pick up 
objects in plain sight and which hunts for them 
with his eyes and does not use his nose should 

57 



58 Amateur's Dog Book 

not be considered a good retriever. A properly 
trained retriever will not go for an object until 
ordered to do so, and will then go promptly, and 
as soon as he finds what he was sent for, picks 
it up gently and without mouthing it returns 
promptly and delivers it into his master's hands. 
A retriever should be taught to look for things 
which he has not seen placed or thrown and must 
work by scent and be guided this way and that 
by a wave of the hand. 

There are two methods of teaching a dog to 
retrieve, the force system and the natural system. 
The force system is fully described in "Modern 
Breaking," a book devoted solely to the develop- 
ment of hunting dogs, and is very effectual with 
such dogs, as by it a dog of any age can be taught 
to retrieve. The amateur trainer will, however, 
find the natural system the safer and easier 
method to pursue in teaching his dog, although 
in many cases a combination of both the force 
and natural systems proves most successful. 

In using the natural system a dog's lessons 
should begin at an early age, for by this method 
a dog's natural instincts to fetch and carry are 
taken advantage of and developed into a useful 
accomplishment. Most puppies have more or 
less of the retrieving instinct, as is evidenced by 
their fondness for picking up and carrying odds 
and ends about the house, kennel and yard. At 



Amateur's Dog Book 59 

the teething period this instinct is especially 
strong, as the gums are inflamed and sore and 
the youngsters get more or less relief from 
mouthing hard objects or having a soft object 
like an old glove drawn between their teeth, and 
these conditions can be made use of to advantage. 
Shake an old glove in front of a puppy and he 
will grab hold of it ; draw it through his teeth 
and throw it a few feet away, and it is more than 
likely he will pick it up and give it a shake or 
two and bring it to you, so that you will again 
draw it away from him and throw it out for him 
to fetch. Every time you throw the glove say 
"fetch." Repeat this operation about half 
a dozen times, but be sure to desist before the 
puppy gets tired of the play, for while this is a 
lesson, in the puppy's mind it is only play. The 
puppy will not understand the word "fetch" at 
first, but in time, from hearing it repeated so 
frequently, he will associate it with the act of 
bringing the glove to you. 

For these early lessons a glove is the best ob- 
ject that can be used, as it is soft on the puppy's 
mouth and the scent of the hand naturally as- 
sociates it in the puppy's mind with his master. 
After the puppy has become accustomed to the 
glove and has some idea of picking it up and 
carrying it, various articles should be used, as a 
soft ball or one of india rubber, or a roll of cloth. 




6o 



Amateur's Dog Book 61 

If this is not done he may interest himself only 
in the glove and pay no attention to other ob- 
jects. Repeat these lessons several times each 
day, showing him the object and then throwing 
it a short distance away for him to fetch, until 
he thoroughly understands what is expected, then 
gradually increase the distance, always exercis- 
ing great care that you do not attempt to force 
your pupil too fast or throw the object too far. 
These lessons are best given in a closed room and 
the pupil generally does best if worked alone, for 
outsiders or other dogs distract his attention. 
In some cases two puppies can be worked to- 
gether, but there is always danger of them play- 
ing with each other and getting their minds off 
the retrieving. There is very little trouble in 
getting the dog to run to the object after you 
throw it and he will generally pick it up, and so 
long as he will bring it to you of his own accord 
all is well, but if he will not do so you will have 
to persuade him to fetch it to you, and if your 
voice is not sufficient to accomplish this try the 
effects of rewarding him with a tid-bit of boiled 
liver. In giving lessons this way the dog must 
not be too hungry, for if he is, after he receives 
the first reward it will drive all thoughts of fetch- 
ing out of his mind and he will think only of the 
food and will watch the hand that gave him the 
morsel. Throw the glove or other object six or 



62 Amateur's Dog Book 

eight feet away, and if he fetches it to you re- 
ward him with a morsel of meat or liver and pat 
him on the head to show your appreciation. Re- 
peat this lesson several times and reward him 
as often as he brings you the object thrown 
of his own accord, but if he fails to do so do not 
reward him. If he drops it before he reaches 
you, go to him and place it in his mouth, say 
"fetch" and walk him back to the place where 
you stood and then reward him. The idea is to 
get him to understand that if he brings you the 
ball he will be rewarded. Do not keep him too 
long at these lessons at one time, but keep them 
up day after day and always give them in more 
or less of a spirit of playfulness ; after he will 
retrieve reasonably prompt you can become more 
exacting about his always bringing the object 
to you and delivering it into your hand. 

Up to this time the pupil has been allowed to 
run for the object as soon as it was thrown, and 
it is also presumed that these lessons have been 
continued over a period of four or five months 
and that meanwhile he has been taught to drop 
at command. After he has been faithfully 
drilled in retrieving without orders he can be 
taught to retrieve to order. This can be taught 
easily. Call your dog to you, order him to drop, 
and if necessary steady him by laying a hand 
lightly on his shoulder ; then throw the ball or 



Amateur's Dog Book 63 

glove, keep him in position a moment, and say 
"fetch," waving him on with your hand. Prac- 
tice this until he will lie perfectly still when 
you throw the ball and will not start after it 
until he hears the word "fetch," then prac- 
tice him standing. You can elaborate on these 
lessons and make them more difficult by throw- 
ing the object into. the grass or weeds, or tossing 
it over a fence. After he has progressed as far 
as this in his schooling a variety of objects should 
be introduced for him to retrieve, so that he will 
not become too much accustomed to one or two 
objects. 

During all these preparatory lessons the puppy 
has relied upon his eyes to find the object and 
has not used his power of scent. This should 
be developed, and he must also be taught to rely 
upon his master and look to him for instruction 
as to the direction in which to search. As a 
first lesson leave the pupil in one room and hide 
the ball or glove he has been accustomed to 
retrieving in another room, then call in your 
dog, say "fetch," and pretend to look for the 
object yourself, hunting with him until it is 
found. Do not hide it in too difficult a place, and 
be sure he finds it before he gets tired of the 
search, and never forget to reward and praise 
him for his success. After he has become pro- 
ficient in searching for objects that have been 



64 Amateur's Dog Book 

hidden about a room he can be worked out of 
doors. Order him to drop behind a house or 
fence, or a patch of bushes, and then place the 
ball or glove in some place where it can be found 
easily, gradually hiding it in more difficult places. 
These lessons can be rehearsed further by hiding 
pieces of meat or liver about a room or yard, and 
then going with him and encouraging him to 
scent them out and find them ; this will teach 
him to use his nose, and if the lessons are given 
on an empty stomach he will search industriously 
and in time becomes very expert. 

Trailing. — A dog can be taught to follow a 
trial by dragging a piece of meat tied to a string 
through the grass and encouraging him to foot 
out the scent until the meat is reached, and after 
he finds it allow him to eat it. Do not drag it 
too far the first lesson, but gradually increase the 
distance, and later draw the meat zigzag or in 
a circle. It will require considerable practice and 
experience before a dog becomes expert at this, 
but keep him at it and in time he will become 
proficient. 

To teach your dog to be guided by your hand, 
scatter a few pieces of meat about the yard and 
after he finds the first, direct him with a wave 
of the hand toward the next, continuing in the 
same manner until he has found all you have 




65 



66 Amateur's Dog Book 

placed, and he will soon learn to look to you 
for directions. 

WATER DOGS. 

After a dog - will retrieve on land he can be 
taught to retrieve from the water, and at times 
be really useful as well as entertaining, for 
every one enjoys seeing a dog disport himself 
in a pool, swimming about and retrieving ob- 
jects thrown by his master or diving to the 
bottom for bright objects, and many lives have 
been saved by well-trained water dogs. 

Newfoundlands have always enjoyed the pre- 
mier position as water dogs, their great 
strength and courage enabling them to face 
seas that would beat down the strongest swim- 
mer, and they stand at the head of life-saving 
dogs. Unfortunately, breeders have neglected 
this noble breed and they are now so rare as 
to be almost extinct. 

St. Bernards are not as powerful swimmers 
as the Newfoundlands nor are their coats so 
wet-resisting, but their strength enables them, 
when properly trained, to render more assist- 
ance to a person in distress than some of the 
lighter breeds. 

The retrievers, especially the curly-coated 
variety, make very good water dogs, but the 
best of all water dogs, excepting the Newfound- 
land, is the Irish water spaniel. This breed has 



Amateur's Dog Book 67 

an especially thick, oily, water-resisting coat 
and possesses all the intelligence and docility 
and more dash and courage than any of the 
other members of the spaniel family. A good 
Irish water spaniel would rather be in the wa- 
ter than on land. They have good noses and 
make splendid assistants to the duck hunter, 
and can outswim all other breeds of dogs. 

All of the poodles except the toys take to 
the water cheerfully and are easily taught to 
retrieve. Nearly all collies are fond of water 
and by reason of their dash, enthusiasm and in- 
telligence make excellent retrievers ; their thick 
coats, however, are hard to dry. The setters 
take more or less readily to the water and by 
reason of their spaniel ancestry have the re- 
trieving instinct well developed. Most rough- 
haired terriers also take readily to the water, 
the Airedales heading the list as water dogs, 
for they take to it as promptly and make as ex- 
pert swimmers as spaniels, and some of them 
are powerful enough to make good duck re- 
trievers. Bull terriers, on account of their 
thin coats, are at a disadvantage in the water 
during the cold weather, but they are so game 
and courageous that they make undaunted 
swimmers and divers. 

Dogs do not have to learn to swim, but can 
do so as soon as they can walk. This fact 



68 Amateur's Dog Book 

must not be interpreted into considering them 
amphibious, for, on the contrary, they are land 
animals and except in rare instances are born 
with a natural dread of the water. Teaching 
dogs to retrieve from water is largely a matter 
of overcoming this fear and prejudice and re- 
placing it by a fondness and enthusiasm for 
that element. The old method of overcoming 
this dread was to take a young dog by the 
back of the neck and pitch him into a deep 
pool and then allow him to paddle out as best 
he could. A dog of unusual courage might 
withstand this shock and possibly in time for- 
get about it, but a dog at all timid or easily 
alarmed would be so completely overcome with 
terror and disgust as to have ever afterward 
a dread of water. It is by such treatment that 
many dogs, which with proper care and train- 
ing would have made good retrievers, are 
ruined for life. 

There is only one right way to develop a 
fondness for water in a young dog and that is 
by accustoming him, or rather allowing him 
to gradually accustom himself, to the untried 
element. Dogs are inquisitive animals, more or 
less jealous, and have the spirit of emulation 
so strongly developed that one of the best 
methods of teaching a dog to take to the wa- 
ter is to allow him to see a well-trained dog 
disporting himself in a pond or stream. If 




69 



70 Amateur's Dog Book 

the puppy is especially plucky and has not had 
his natural courage weakened by a previous 
ducking or ill treatment, the temptation to 
wade or swim out to the other dog is too 
strong to resist, particularly if you have chosen 
the right sort of a day on which to give the 
youngster his introduction to the water. On 
a cold, windy day when the waves are rolling 
in, the puppy is always apprehensive of danger 
and the chill of the water is not encouraging. 
On a quiet, warm, sunshiny day everything 
looks inviting, and if in addition the banks are 
sandy, smooth and shelving, so that the young- 
ster can wade out a distance before the water 
is deep enough to cause him any uneasiness, 
there will be little difficulty about his entering 
the water. Most of the books written on this 
subject say that the puppy should be encour- 
aged to enter the water. This is a mistake, 
for a puppy learns by experience. If you take 
him to the water and try to impress upon him 
the fact that there is nothing to fear, the 
chances are that you will simply add to his 
belief that there is something to fear. If you 
have a good dog with you, devote all your time 
to throwing out objects for him to retrieve and 
pay no attention to the puppy ; your unconcern 
and the actions of the trained dog will make 
a stronger impression on him than anything' 



Amateur's Dog Book 71 

you can say and he will forget his fears much 
quicker than if you make a fuss over him. 

A person who is fond of swimming can 
practice another method that usually produces 
success. When you go swimming take the 
young dog with you, but leave him on the 
bank when you go in the water and do not pay 
any attention to him. He will be greatly con- 
cerned at being left on the bank and in many 
instances will attempt to follow you. If he 
does not, after a few moments approach within 
a few feet of the bank where the puppy can 
wade, and call him. If after two or three les- 
sons he does not come willingly, he should be 
carried out a short distance and then gently 
lowered into the water, supporting him care- 
fully with your hand, being careful to keep 
his head out of the water, and as he starts 
to swim to shore go with him ; after he arrives 
at the bank allow him to frisk around and 
shake himself and recover his spirits, and then 
take him out again and repeat the trip. If you 
are careful with him his natural fears will 
soon be overcome. 

Terriers, if taken to a stream that is fre- 
quented by water rats, will usually go 
promptly to hunting them, and in their enthu- 
siasm entirely forget any dislike they enter- 
tained toward the water. Wading a shallow 
stream and walking on as if it were the most 



72 Amateur's Dog Book 

natural thing in the world to do will generally 
result in the puppy following you. 

Another method is to wait until the puppy 
is hungry and then walk along close to or par- 
tially in the water and from time to time give 
the puppy a tid-bit of boiled liver or a small 
piece of meat. The pnpil in his eagerness to 
satisfy his hunger will now and then step into 
the water without noticing it and gradually you 
can wade through water two or three inches 
deep and the young clog will follow you and 
forget his fears. 

The methods explained will overcome most 
dogs' prejudice and timidity, but in training 
dogs one thing must never be lost sight of, 
and that is, that what will work well with one 
dog will not do with another. There are nu- 
merous methods that can be resorted to, and 
ultimate success depends almost entirely upon 
the patience and good judgment of the trainer, 
who above all tilings must not attempt to ac- 
complish too much at one lesson, and must re- 
member that what the pupil does not learn one 
day can be taught on the next. Some dogs 
which at first are so nervous and timid that they 
will venture into the water barely sufficient to 
wet their forefeet and others which are afraid 
to go even as far as that can by care and pa- 
tience be made brave and reliable retrievers. 




73 



74 Amateur's Dog Book 

RETRIEVING FROM THE WATER. 

After a dog's natural fears and prejudices 
against water have been replaced by a fond- 
ness for that element, his lessons in retrieving" 
can be taken up. The objects selected for him 
to retrieve must float easily and be of a size and 
weight suited to the dog's strength and ability. 

If a wooden ball is used it should not be 
so large as to be difficult for the dog to grasp, 
nor so small as to be in danger of slipping too 
far back in the mouth and being swallowed. A 
stick about ten inches long and a trifle thicker 
than a broom handle answers very well for 
spaniels, setters or collies, and one a trifle 
smaller is suitable for the working terriers. 
Wrapping the stick with cloth with the idea 
that it will make the pupil soft-mouthed is a 
mistake ; it has a contrary effect, for a dog 
will show more inclination to mouth a covered 
stick than he would one not so incumbered. 
A light wooden ball is a good thing to work 
with and has the advantage of being easily 
carried in the pocket. A stick or ball that is 
painted white is more easily seen, as dark ob- 
jects are difficult to see on the water, and the 
dog's range of vision, while swimming, with his 
eyes only a few inches above the water, is nat- 
urally limited. 

For a dog's first lesson in retrieving from the 



Amateur's Dog Book 75 

water take him to a lake or stream with shelv- 
ing banks and a shallow bottom ; begin by let- 
ting him retrieve the stick or ball he is accus- 
tomed to retrieving from the shore close to 
the water, then throw it into the water a few 
inches, close to the shore, so that he can reach 
out and pick it up by barely wetting his feet. If 
he retrieves all right continue the lesson, but 
be particularly careful in increasing the dis- 
tance you throw it out, and do not attempt 
to do too much in one lesson ; in fact, you will 
be doing very well if you succeed in getting 
your pupil to wade into water two or three 
inches deep at first. The next day you can 
throw it into deeper water, and can increase 
the distance from day to day until he will dash 
into water that reaches to his shoulders. Then 
comes the most difficult lesson, and that is to 
get. him to go into water so deep that he will 
be obliged to swim. The chances are that 
when you throw the stick out into deep water 
he will dash out after it, but as soon as the 
water gets beyond his depth will turn around 
and come back. In these lessons it is advisable 
to tie a light piece of cord to the stick, so that 
it can, if necessary, be pulled into shore ; if 
the puppy returns without the stick draw it in 
and show it to the youngster and praise him 
just as if he had retrieved it, but let this end 
the lesson for that day, and on the next day 



Amateur's Dog Book 77 

begin by throwing the stick out just as far as 
he can wade, and then a bit farther, and some 
day he will gather courage and make a grab 
for the stick, even if it does take him off his 
feet, and will bring it back. After he once 
takes to going over his depth to retrieve, it is 
an easy matter to increase the distance you 
throw the stick until he will go after it, no 
matter how far you may throw it. Be careful, 
however, not to overtask his strength and 
never continue the lessons after he shows signs 
of being tired or displays a lack of interest. 

After a young dog takes to the water 
promptly and swims boldly, attention can be 
given to the way in which he retrieves. Some 
dogs will only partially retrieve and when 
they come out of the water with the object 
either drop it into shallow water or on the 
very edge of the stream, seemingly with the 
impression that they have completed their task ; 
others, after they leave the water, race up and 
down the bank and frisk around with the float 
in their mouth. These faults can be overcome 
by backing away from the dog as soon as he 
leaves the water, and as he sees you retiring 
he will be in a hurry to get to you. 

After several weeks' practice in fetching a 
dog should become so perfect as to jump in 
and fetch any object you may throw for him, 
and then can be taught to retrieve objects that 



78 Amateur's Dog Book 

are pointed out to him. In teaching this, at first 
tie a string to some well-known object with 
which the dog has practiced, and when he is 
not looking throw it out a few feet from the 
bank, then take a walk along the shore, come 
up to the float as if by accident and point it 
out to your dog and tell him to fetch. If he 
does not do so, draw it in slowly by the string 
and call his attention to what you are doing 
and encourage him to pick up the stick ; if he 
refrains from picking it up, show it to him 
after you get it out of the water and throw it 
out again. Practice this lesson day after day, 
and after he will fetch the stick that he has 
been accustomed to work with, vary it with 
other articles, so that he will go in after any- 
thing you point out to him. and if he is of a 
water-loving breed and naturally courageous, 
he will in time, when walking out with you 
along a river, be constantly looking for some 
floating article that he can retrieve. Whenever 
he retrieves anything in this way be sure and 
praise him for his act and give him the im- 
pression that you value the article he has 
brought you, carrying it along with you until 
you get an opportunity to throw it away without 
him seeing you do so. 

As he gets older and stronger he can be 
sent after larger objects, and by first accus- 
toming him to plunge in from a surface about 



Amateur's Dog Book 79 

on a level with the water and gradually in- 
creasing the distance he can be taught to jump 
boldly from a high bank. 

LIFE-SAVING DOGS. 

To be an efficient life-saver a dog must be a 
rapid, powerful swimmer, so as to get to a 
drowning person in the shortest possible time, 
and must be strong enough to either afford sup- 
port on the water or drag the person ashore. 
The only breeds which fully answer these re- 
quirements are Newfoundlands, St. Bernards 
and the Irish spaniels, but at critical moments 
collies, setters, and, in fact, nearly all the breeds 
with the exception of the small terriers and 
spaniels, are capable of rendering valuable as- 
sistance to persons in distress. 

In training a dog with especial reference to 
life-saving, he should be taught to jump 
promptly into the water from any reasonable 
distance and should be worked at retrieving 
large objects that are pointed out to him in the 
water. After the dog is fully grown and has 
had plenty of experience in retrieving large 
objects, an effigy of a man should be made out 
of canvas, painted and stuffed with cork and 
placed in the water. After showing it to the 
dog order him to fetch it out ; go to the edge 
of the water with the dog and assist him in 
landing the dummy. The effigy can be gradu- 



8o Amateur's Dog Book 

ally weighted until it is as heavy as a man. 
Later on get some man who is a good swim- 
mer to go into the water dressed in old clothes 
and pretend he is drowning, then send your 
dog in to help him out. A continuation of 
these lessons and daily practice will develop 
a dog into a reliable life-saver. 

FETCHING A BOAT. 

A boat that has not been securely fastened 
frequently drifts out of reach. A dog, if of 
large size, can be taught to bring it back to shore, 
providing the boat's painter is floating in the 
water, and in an occurrence of this kind it usually 
is. This is taught by attaching a good-sized 
piece of light wood to a boat's painter and order- 
ing the dog to retrieve the float ; he will drag it 
in and with it the boat. This lesson can be re- 
peated until he becomes expert in handling a 
boat under these conditions, and then he can be 
taught to go after the floating rope without the 
attachment of the float. 

DIVING. 

Dogs are taught to dive on the same principles 
that they are taught to retrieve, which is by en- 
couraging them to pick objects out of the shal- 
low water and then gradually inducing them to 
go deeper and deeper. The first lesson must be 
given in water that is shallow, clear and warm 
enough not to be uncomfortable. Wait until the 



Amateur's Dog Book 81 

dog is hungry and then drop a piece of cheese in 
a bucket or large bowl containing two or three 
inches of water. Gradually increase the depth of 
water until the pupil will plunge his head under 
the water without hesitation. 

After he will go after a piece of meat or 
cheese, substitute for it a small wooden ball 
weighted with lead, so that it will sink, and 
painted white, so that it can be easily seen, gradu- 
ally increasing the depth of the water. When 
you begin working in water more than a foot 
deep it is a good idea to attach a string to the 
ball, so that you can recover it in case your pupil 
fails to do so. A medium-sized, well bleached 
beef bone is a good thing for a dog to retrieve, 
or a stone sewed up in a piece of calico will 
answer -the purpose, but it is not advisable to 
have a dog retrieve stones, as they w r ear down 
his teeth and make him hard-mouthed. 




82 



TRICK DOGS. 

THE performing of tricks, while not a 
necessary part of a dog's education, is 
an accomplishment that affords an owner 
and his friends a great deal of amusement and 
adds materially to the value of a dog. All dogs 
can be taught tricks, but some breeds have a 
special aptitude in that direction. At the head 
of the list of trick dogs is the poodle, as he 
takes to the performance of tricks as if it were 
second nature, and he is the main reliance of all 
showmen. Newfoundlands, St. Bernards and 
Great Danes learn easily, while the collies and 
spaniels are very intelligent ; the terriers are 
apt pupils and among the toy dogs the black 
and tans and schipperkes are highly spoken of. 
In selecting the tricks that are to be taught a 
dog, the owner must show some discretion and 
no attempt should be made to teach dogs tricks 
that are not within their powers. As an illus- 
tration a big St. Bernard or Great Dane is sadly 
out of place attempting to sit up, walk on his 
hindlegs or dance. They are physically incap- 
able of doing so and their attempts are out of 
keeping with the dignity which is their principal 
charm. They can, however, with perfect pro- 
83 



84 Amateur's Dog Book 

priety, be taught to fetch and carry, jump, shake 
hands or speak. Spaniels are particularly apt at 
fetching and carrying, collies learn to count and 
speak readily, and the terriers have a wide 
sphere of possibilities. 

Dogs which are to be taught tricks must have 
their education begun early in life, so that the 
playfulness of puppyhood can be taken advantage 
of, for as dogs mature they take on a sedateness 
that increases the difficulty of teaching them to 
assume unnatural positions, whereas, with a 
puppy a trick can be made more or less a matter 
of play and he will enjoy going through with it. 

In the general education of a puppy very little 
punishment should be given and in trick train- 
ing no punishment at all. A dog can be forced 
to do certain things, but if forced he generally 
acts so slow and sulky that it detracts from his 
performance, whereas, if he is coaxed into doing 
them and performs because he likes to, he will 
go through with his act with an enthusiasm and 
snap that is most attractive. For these reasons 
you must not get excited while educating your 
young dog nor speak loud, nor cuff and whip 
him, but should by frequent good-natured repeti- 
tion of the same performance persuade and coax 
him to assume certain attitudes or do certain 
things, and. when he has done so, praise him; he 
will then know that you appreciate what he has 



Amateur's Dog Book 85 

done. It is also advisable to reward him with a 
tid-bit of meat or cheese. 

SHAKE HANDS. 

The first trick that is generally taught a dog 
is to shake hands, and there are very few boys 
who do not teach their pets this simple trick. In 
most cases it is so easily accomplished that the 
amateur trainer does not know exactly how it 
was done, for if you take hold of a dog's paw and 
say "paw" or "shake" and repeat the perform- 
ance often enough and at odd times, it will be the 
most natural thing for a dog to place his paw in 
your hand as soon as you extend it and he 
hears the word "paw," to which he has become 
accustomed. If during the training you always 
take hold of the right paw, this paw will always 
be the one he will give you, but he can be taught 
to give you the left paw by taking it when you 
make the request. You can make the perform- 
ance more interesting by saying "shake hands" 
when you want the right paw and when you want 
the left paw say "left paw." This gives your 
audience the impression that your pupil under- 
stands that it is customary to shake hands with 
the right hand and that he also possesses a left 
paw, in fact that is what he actually learns. 
Should your pupil offer you the left paw when 
you ask to "shake hands," repeat your com- 
mand distinctly, and when he sees, after a mo- 



86 Amateur's Dog Book 

ment or two, that you are not going to take the 
paw he offers, he will put it down and in all 
probability offer you the other paw, which is the 
one you want. You should take it promptly and 
hold it for a minute, then pat him on the head 
and impress on him that he has pleased you. 

This trick of shaking hands can also be varied 
by asking the dog to show you his pulse, or the 
trick can be farther elaborated by saying to your 
dog when you want to show him off to friends 
or acquaintances : "Jack, °ld man, you are not 
looking well this morning ; come here and let 
me feel your pulse," and by putting a little em- 
phasis on the word "pulse" the dog will come up 
to you and offer you his paw, and if you take it 
with an air of gravity it will impress your au- 
dience with your dog's talent. Some dogs, after 
sufficient practice at this trick, get so that they 
continually offer their paw to every one who will 
take it, and a case is recorded of a half-grown 
puppy of one of the larger breeds which was so 
accustomed to offering his paw that one day 
when a strange cat made its appearance on the 
premises the puppy made a rush at the intruder 
with every appearance of hostility, but when 
near the cat habit gained a mastery over instinct, 
and the puppy held out his paw as usual, and 
did not pitch onto the cat until after she struck 
his extended paw with her claws. 



88 Amateur's Dog Book 

SITTING UP. 

This trick is easily taught small dogs, but 
should not be included in a big dog's education, 
as it is difficult for them to preserve their bal- 
ance. The act of sitting up forms the ground- 
work for many other tricks. To teach a dog to 
sit up have as a reward a small piece of meat, 
and set your pupil on his haunches in a corner, 
so that he cannot fall either backward or side- 
ways and has very little or no balancing to do. 
Keep him from pitching forward by holding one 
hand under his chin and with the other hand hold 
the reward above his nose and keep repeating 
distinctly and deliberately, '"sit up." Do not 
make him sit up too long at any one time, but 
repeat the lesson frequently and reward him 
often. 

During his first lesson he will require con- 
siderable assistance from your hand to prevent 
him from pitching forward, but as he gets con- 
trol of the balancing muscles and understands 
what you want, he will depend less and less upon 
your hand to keep him in position and you can 
gradually render him less assistance until you 
will only have to keep one hand in position two 
or three inches from his neck or chin, so as to be 
ready to prevent him pitching forward ; later on 
you can withdraw this hand entirely and simply 
hold the tid-bit just above the level of his head. 



^H BfTJ BL* •*« ^H 




j^t Hh H.*.', t . 








* . 






r 





SITTING UP 
89 



go Amateur's Dog Book 

By constant practice he will sit up well after 
you set him up ; then he should be set up 
against the wall, so as to afford him a support 
for his back only, and after he has been well 
schooled at this and can keep his position easily, 
practice him against chair legs, cushions or other 
objects that afford him less and less assistance, 
until finally he learns to preserve his balance and 
sits up without anything to lean against. 

During all these lessons the words "sit up" 
have been impressed upon his mind by frequent 
repetition, and now comes the final lesson to 
teach him to sit up as soon as he hears the words, 
and the chances are, if he has been diligently 
drilled, it will be necessary only to call him out 
in the room, show him a small piece of meat, 
hold it up a suitable distance from the floor, say 
"sit up" and he will do so, when he should be 
given the tid-bit while still in position. The only 
necessity to perfection is to practice him several 
times a day until he will sit up at the word and 
without being shown a reward ; that can be given 
him after he has obeyed. 

You have now a foundation for many other 
tricks. He can be taught to beg by moving your 
hand up and down just in front of his paws, 
which he will move in unison with yours. He 
can be taught to salute by bringing one paw up 
to the side of his head, or to hold a wooden pipe 




SITTING UP 
91 



92 Amateur's Dog Book 

in his month, or to wear a cap on his head or 
other articles of wearing apparel. In teaching a 
dog to submit to being dressed up, do not attempt 
to get him to wear too many things at once ; try 
him at first with a cap and after he becomes ac- 
customed to that yon can put on a coat and 
gradually accustom him to the other articles. 
For a time it will probably be necessary to hold 
these things on him. 

SHUTTING THE DOOR. 

This trick can be taught dogs of all sizes, but 
small clogs should not be asked to close large or 
heavy doors. In teaching this trick select a door 
that swings easily on its hinges ; drive a nail in 
it at such a distance above the floor that the pupil 
can just reach it by standing on his hindlegs 
with his forefeet resting against the door. Open 
the door a few inches, place a small piece of meat 
on the nail and call your pupil's attention to it, 
saying "Shut the door." In reaching for the 
dainty the dog will place his forefeet on the door 
and this will close it. If preferable the tid-bit 
can be balanced on the door handle, and shutting 
the door will jar it to the floor, when he should 
be allowed to eat it and be petted and praised. 
After he has done this a few times you can ad- 
vance him in his lessons by placing the meat in 
position while he is in another room, then call 



Amateur's Dog Book 93 

him in and say "Shut the door," directing- him 
toward it, and if he does not go, show him the 
morsel and encourage him to get it. In time he 
will understand the order and will close any door 
that is shown to him. 

Finally, teach him to close the door without 
having any reward in sight, but after he shuts it 
in response to your command reward him with a 
dainty. In the first lessons you need not be par- 
ticular about having the door closed tight, but 
later on insist upon its being done before any 
reward is given. 

OPENING THE DOOR. 

Dogs can be taught easily to open swinging 
doors, but opening fastened doors is a much more 
difficult act, and is possible only with those that 
have the easiest and simplest latches. 

To teach a dog to open a swinging door call 
his attention to it and push it open at the bottom. 
Do this a number of times every day for several 
days, then go through the door, closing it after 
you, and leave your pupil on the other side ; call 
him and he will soon learn to push the door open 
in order to reach you. 

To teach a dog to open a latch, hold the dog up 
to it and push it back with his paw, and continue 
to give him practice in this way until he will 
push it back without your assistance. 



94 Amateur's Dog Book 

TRUST AND PAID FOR. 

This is an old trick that affords as much enter- 
tainment as anything a dog can do, is easily 
taught and can be elaborated on and presented in 
several different forms. 

To teach this trick call your dog to you, allow- 
ing him to stand up or sit down on his haunches, 
as he desires, and hold his head steady with one 
hand, while you balance a piece of meat or sugar 
on his nose. Say to him, "On trust, on trust/' 
steadying his head with one hand and holding up 
a threatening finger with the other and repeat- 
ing the words, "( hi trust, on trust ;" then release 
his head, saying "paid for," and give him a little 
chuck under the chin, that will cause him to toss 
the morsel up and catch it. Of course, in his 
earlier attempts he will not be able to catch the 
morsel, but he should be allowed to eat the dainty 
after it strikes the floor. Continuous repetition 
of this performance will produce efficiency, when 
you may refrain from holding his head and he 
will balance the tid-bit on his nose until you give 
him the words "Paid for." 

He can be taught also to hold the morsel be- 
tween his teeth and not to swallow it until told 
to do so. This trick can be made more impres- 
sive by holding a conversation with your dog. 
For instance, you might say : "Jack, old man, 
here is a very nice piece of meat, but it is 'on 



Amateur's Dog Book 95 

trust.' " Slightly emphasize the word "trust" and 
then go on and say : "I am glad you dislike to 
eat things on trust, but this I have just learned 
has been 'paid for,' " emphasizing the words 
"paid for." 

Your dog can also be taught to toss the morsel 
on hearing a certain number. To teach this, bal- 
ance it on his nose and hold his head while you 
count plainly and deliberately, one, two, three, 
and then chuck him under the chin. Until he 
has had a great deal of practice he will toss it up 
as promptly at one, two, four, as he will at one, 
two, three, but he must be drilled until he will not 
toss it until he hears "three," and it will make it 
easier for him if you slightly emphasize the 
"three." In time you can use many combinations 
of figures and he will wait until he hears the em- 
phasized "three." In working him do not make 
him wait too long before you say "three," and 
allow him to eat the dainty. 

WALKING ERECT. 

Standing and walking on the hindlegs are 
tricks that put an abnormal strain upon the 
muscles of the back and hindlegs and most dogs 
require considerable practice before they gain 
sufficient control of those muscles to balance 
themselves in this unnatural position. 

A dog should first be taught to sit up and after 
he will do this well, hold a small piece of meat 





STANDING UP 
96 



98 Amateur's Dog Book 

just above his nose and say "Up," when he will 
elevate himself just a trifle to get it, and should 
be allowed to eat it. Give him daily practice at 
this, making him reach a little higher from day 
to day until he can balance himself on his hind- 
feet. Do not keep him at these lessons too long 
at any one time, as they are very fatiguing, and 
you must give the muscles plenty of time in 
which to grow strong, so that he can sustain him- 
self more easily. After he can stand up he 
should be taught to walk by slowly moving the 
meat from him, and he will be induced to take 
first one step and then another toward it. Re- 
ward him frequently by letting him have the 
dainty and be careful not to tire him. 

DAXCIXG. 

After a dog can stand erect and walk on his 
hindlegs he can be taught to dance, which con- 
sists simply in hopping around on the hindlegs 
and at short intervals turning around. The 
simplest method of teaching this trick is to attach 
a piece of meat to a switch, four or five feet long ; 
hold the meat in tempting proximity to the dog's 
nose, and so high that he will stand on his hind- 
legs to get to it, and then slowly move it around 
and he will follow after it any way that you may 
select. Do not keep him at it too long and re- 
ward him frequently, so as to keep up his en- 
thusiasm. In the early lessons he simply follows 



Amateur's Dog Book 99 

the switch because he wants the reward attached 
to the end of it, but later he will follow around 
if he is rewarded after doing- so, and by con- 
tinued practice will do so at command and for 
an occasional reward. He then can be accus- 
tomed to dancing when dressed up in fantastic 
apparel. 

JUMPING. 

To teach a dog to jump, with your right hand 
hold a cane just high enough above the ground 
so that your pupil can easily step over it, and 
in your left hand hold a piece of meat just in 
front of him, so that he will have to step over the 
stick to get it. As the dog grows older and 
understands what you want him to do, you can 
raise the stick a few inches at a time, so that he 
will be obliged eventually to jump over it to ob- 
tain the reward. Occasionally refrain from re- 
warding him, and thus accustom him to jumping 
without a reward. 

After a dog will jump over a stick he can be 
taught to jump over yOur extended foot or 
through a hoop or your arms ; in fact, a small 
dog can be taught to jump through your arms 
much more easily than over a stick, as all you 
have to do is to throw a tid-bit on the ground and 
hold your arms in front of him so that he will 
have to walk through them to gain the reward, 
gradually elevating your arms so that he will be 



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101 



102 Amateur's Dog Book 

obliged to jump before you allow him to pass. 
Always encourage your dog by saying "Hip" 
whenever he jumps. 

JUMPING THE ROPE. 

After a dog has learned to leap he can be 
taught to jump the rope, but this will require 
considerable practice. In the 1 beginning tie one 
end of the rope to some stationary object a few 
inches from the ground and hold the other end 
with your hand, drawing the rope taut close to 
the ground; accustom your pupil to jumping 
over it while it is at rest, and don't forget to use 
the word "Hip" or "Hoop-la" each time he 
jumps. When he does this satisfactorily you can 
give the rope a slight swaying motion and at the 
proper moment give him the word "Hip," and 
if the rope is not swinging too fast or far he will 
in all probability jump over it. After he will do 
this all that remains to be done is to gradually 
swing the rope farther and faster until he learns 
to jump the rope satisfactorily. A dog which 
will jump the rope standing on four legs is doing 
well, but it is possible to teach him to do so while 
standing on his hindlegs ; this is, however, a very 
difficult feat and puts considerable strain en the 
dog's muscles, and it is not always advisable to 
force a dog to do it. 

SPEAKING. 

All breeds and sizes of dogs can be taught 



Amateur's Dog Book 103 

easily to speak, and the way to go about it is to 
call your dog, show him a morsel cf meat and 
say "Speak." He will not understand what you 
mean and will probably at first jump for it, and 
then sit down on his haunches and eye it at- 
tentively ; finally, he will get impatient and utter 
a sharp bark, which is what you have been wait- 
ing for, and the instant he does so reward him 
with the meat. A dog which is slow in barking 
can be encouraged to do so by your imitating a 
bark, as the chances are he will reply to it, and 
if you reward him he will learn to bark as soon 
as he hears the word "speak." 

After a dog has been taught to bark once, you 
can teach him to bark any number of times, for 
when he has learned to expect a reward after 
barking once and you do not give it to him he 
is apt to bark again or until you give him a signal 
to stop. Dogs are very observing and the signal 
to stop barking can be so slight that your friends 
will not detect it, such as a movement of the 
foot or hand, a dropping of the eyelids or a shift- 
ing of your gaze, and if you keep up a running 
fire of conversation and address your dog as if 
he were a human being his performance will be 
much more impressive and perplexing. As an 
illustration, if you are exhibiting your dog to an 
audience and w T ant him to speak, don't simply 
say "speak," but address him something like 



104 Amateur's Dog Book 

this: "Now, Jack, all the ladies and gentlemen 
present are very anxious to hear you speak." 
Put a slight emphasis on the word "speak" and 
your dog will catch it, but it will appear to the 
audience as if the dog understood the entire sen- 
tence and not only the one word "speak." Of 
course, when training the young dog you should 
use only the word "speak," and that distinctly 
and free from other words, so as not to confuse 
him. 

DEAD DOG. 

Place a dog on his back or side or in any posi- 
tion you may select, threaten him with your fore- 
finger and say "dead" or any word that you may 
select, rather sharply, and he will not change his 
position. After he will stay in the position in 
which you have placed him, it is only a question 
of practice when you can call to him and say 
"dead," and he will lie down and stretch out in 
the position that you have accustomed him to 
taking. 

BRINGING HIS TAIL. 

While in play dogs frequently grasp their tails 
in their mouths. While frolicking with a dog, if 
you take hold of his tail lie will probably seize 
your hand, and if you dexterously slip his tail in 
his mouth he will grab it. These facts suggested 
the trick of "Bringing his tail." It is a rather 
difficult feat to accomplish, but it is possible for 




to? 



106 Amateur's Dog Book 

any amateur to teach it to his dog providing the 
dog has a long enough tail and the trainer suf- 
ficient patience. The trick is very amusing, for 
when the dog has his tail in his mouth he can only 
advance crab-fashion or sideways, with a ten- 
dency to go around in a circle without making 
much advance. 

The first step in teaching this trick is to praise 
the dog when he first gets his tail in his mouth, 
and after he has held it for a few moments bid 
him to let go and reward him. Should he re- 
linquish his hold before you order him to do so, 
speak sharply to him and begin all over again. 
"When he learns to hold his tail until ordered to 
relinquish it the first part of the trick has been 
taught, and you can begin to teach him to bring 
it to you. To do this, step back a few feet from 
the dog in the direction he can most easily ad- 
vance, and call him. If he releases his hold of 
his tail to come to you, scold him and replace the 
tail in his mouth, but when he comes without let- 
ting go he should be rewarded. Gradually in- 
crease the distance you require him to carry his 
tail, but this task is so difficult that he should not 
be asked to go more than ten or twelve feet. In 
beginning the trick, when you place his tail in 
his mouth say "Bring me. your tail," so as to 
accustom him to the order. In time you will not 
have to place his tail in his mouth, but merelv 





107 



108 Amateur's Dog Book 

hold it for him to grasp, and after still further 
practice he will seize it at the word without your 
assisting him. 

CLIMBING A LADDER. 

To teach a dog to climb a ladder provide a 
ladder about six feet long with flat bars placed 
so close together that the dog can easily step 
from one round to the next. Stand at the side 
of the ladder, call your dog to you and hold a 
tid-bit just above the first round of the ladder 
and in tempting proximity to his nose, and en- 
courage him to climb the ladder round by round 
until he reaches the top. After he learns to fol- 
low the tid-bit up the ladder you can in later 
lessons place it on the top round and he will 
climb after it. He then can be taught to climb 
the ladder simply by your motioning to him to 
do so, and after he reaches the top you can re- 
ward him. He can be worked next with two 
ladders hinged at the top, and after ascending 
one ladder can be taught to go down the other. 
It is quite likely that after ascending one he will 
want to jump down, but must be prevented from 
doing so, and if necessary, reprimanded by a slap 
or threatened with a switch and forced to obey. 
He can be taught to sit up at the top of the lad- 
der, and if two dogs have. been worked together, 
one dog, after he gets to the top where the lad- 
ders join, can be taught to turn half around and 



Amateur's Dog Book 109 

form an arch of his body, and the other dog can 
be taught to go up one ladder, under the arch 
formed by the first dog's belly and down the 
other. There are a number of other feats that 
can be taught dogs which will work on ladders, 
most of them being very simple and never failing 
to amuse an audience. 

SNEEZING. 

Occasionally a dog will be found which as a 
result of peculiarly created nostrils and careful 
training can be taught to sneeze. This is ac- 
complished by tickling the nose with a feather. 
At first he will snap at it, but if it be kept up and 
his olfactory organs are susceptible he will com- 
mence to sneeze ; he will not like the feather 
very well and in course of time his imagination 
will foreshadow its effects and he will begin to 
sneeze as soon as it is pointed in close proximity 
to his nose. By repeating this operation at odd 
times the dog can be taught to sneeze very credit- 
ably when you point your finger at his nose and 
give him the word "Sneeze," and finally will do 
so simply at command. When he sneezes he 
should be rewarded with a tid-bit. 

SINGING. 

A dog which will howl with some regard to 
time is said to be singing. It is not to be ex- 
pected that he will produce any melody or do 
anything but repeat in a mechanical way a series 



no Amateur's Dog Book 

of whines and barks. He can be taught to do 
this in the following manner. Keep him without 
food, and the most natural thing for him to do 
is to whine, but if he does not do so imitate a 
whine yourself, and under these conditions most 
dogs will attempt to imitate the noise you make 
and will, to a certain degree, reach the pitch and 
style of noise made by you, whether it be a howl, 
whine or bark, and in time, by constant prac- 
tice, a dog will learn to follow your tones quite 
accurately. Exercise him every clay over a regu- 
lar scale or on some simple tune and he will 
learn in time to go through it without prompt- 
ing, so that if you will announce to your au- 
dience beforehand the tune they are to expect 
they will be able to recognize it. 

STANDING ON FORELEGS. 

This is a most difficult trick to teach, as the 
position of standing on the front feet alone with 
the head down and the hindlegs elevated is an 
unnatural one, and it will be a long time be- 
fore the dog learns to balance himself. To teach 
this trick provide yourself with a light cane or 
a stick, about two feet long. Hold the stick in 
your right hand and place it under the dog's 
stomach, raising his hindquarters with the stick 
and at the same time placing your left hand on 
his head, so as to prevent his moving away, 
thereby forcing him to retain his reversed posi- 




Ill 



ii2 Amateur's Dog Book 

tion ; as the dog rises into position the stick 
should be gradually moved back from his belly 
until it supports only his hindfeet. Repeat this 
operation at successive lessons until the dog un- 
derstands what is expected of him and learns to 
balance himself with but very little assistance or 
support from the stick, and finally with none at 
all. Eventually he will learn to take the position 
at the order, "on your head," without assistance 
from the hand or switch. 

After a dog can balance himself on his forefeet 
he can be taught easily to take a few steps by 
standing in front and calling him to you, and as 
he gains confidence and experience can be made 
to walk quite a distance. 



GUARD AND WATCH DOGS. 

IT is highly important that a guard dog should 
possess sufficient sagacity and intelligence to 
enable him to discern between friends and 
foes and distinguish harmless visitors from 
questionable characters. If the dog is simply 
expected to give notice by barking at the 
approach of strangers one of the small breeds 
will prove most desirable, for they, as a rule, 
are more wide-awake and active than the larger 
breeds. 

For alertness terriers cannot be surpassed. 
Bull terriers and collies also make splendid watch- 
dogs, but are inclined to go farther than merely 
giving alarm, and are always willing to take the 
driving away of tramps and strangers into their 
own hands. 

If the dog is expected to protect property with- 
out human assistance one of the large breeds, 
such as the Great Danes, mastiffs or St. Bern- 
ards, should be selected, as their size is most im- 
pressive and arouses the fears of intruders. 

The bulldog's reputation for ferocity makes 
him a valuable watch-dog and protector, and 
there are few people who will attempt to take 
liberties with either the property or person pro- 
tected by a bulldog, and the tramp or rogue who 
113 




114 



Amateur's Dog Book 115 

will ignore a terrier or small dog and run the 
risk of evading a mastiff or St. Bernard will flee 
at the sight of a bulldog. 

Watch-dogs are taught solely by experience. 
They should be encouraged to bark at tramps or 
rough characters, and scolded if they bark at well 
behaved and well dressed strangers or people in 
company with some member of the household. 
A watch-dog will get a very good idea of what 
is expected of him by training him to guard dif- 
ferent articles and not allowing anyone but his 
owner, a member of the family or someone with 
whom he is well acquainted to take them from 
him. By giving him different articles to guard 
he will learn gradually to extend his protection 
over everything in the household. 

Guard dogs should not be kept chained' any 
more than is necessary, and their kennels must 
be warm and comfortable in winter and cool and 
shady in summer, and they should be well fed 
and have an unfailing supply of water. Be sure 
and give them a run night and morning, but at 
other times they should be encouraged to stay 
at home. 

PERSONAL GUARD. 

All dogs are so thoroughly devoted to their 
masters that they require no lessons or instruc- 
tions to protect their person. A timid lap dog 
will work itself into a frenzy of passion if you 



n6 Amateur's Dog Book 

attempt to strike its mistress, and the larger 
breeds of dogs have no hesitation in resolutely 
hurling themselves at anyone that threatens their 
owners. If you are out much at night your dog 
will soon learn to exercise a protection over you 
and he can be encouraged to do so by making 
him walk close at your side when passing 
strangers and lonely places. 



DISEASES OF DOGS. 

IT is possible for the average dog owner to 
become proficient in the treatment of the 
diseases to which a dog is inherent, provided 
he is gifted with ordinary intelligence and pow- 
ers of observation, coupled with sufficient 
interest in the subject to inform himself as to 
the general appearance, actions and habits of 
the dog in health, so as to be able to promptly 
recognize any changes in temperament, body 
and habits that take place in disease. 

DETERMINING THE DISEASE. 

Before making an examination of the dog ob- 
tain a full history of the case if possible. A safe 
diagnosis can sometimes be made simply on a 
history of the case, confirmed by characteristic 
symptoms. The liability to certain diseases at 
certain ages or under certain conditions must 
also be considered. 

The greatest mortality among dogs occurs dur- 
ing puppyhood or early youth, and nine-tenths 
of the funerals in dogdom are due to worms and 
distemper. 

Never be in a hurry about giving a dog medi- 
cine ; be sure you know what ails him and arrive 
at a diagnosis by eliminating diseases not indi- 
cated by the symptoms and history of the case. 
117 



u8 Amateur's Dog Book 

First decide whether the patient is suffering from 
worms. If a young dog, from two months to a 
year old, which has never been treated for worms, 
the fact that all dogs have worms will strengthen 
the opinion that it has them, and if the patient 
has the symptoms treat for them. If, on the 
contrary, the dog has none of the symptoms, or 
has been treated for worms, we must look for 
some other disease. 

If the patient is from four months to a year 
old. and is cutting his teeth, or has been at a 
dog show or associated with dogs which have, 
and acts listless and out of sorts a few days after- 
ward, your suspicions should be directed toward 
distemper if it has never had the disease, and by 
studying the symptoms you can arrive at a posi- 
tive opinion and treat accordingly. 

If your patient is an aged dog and has had 
distemper, and for no accountable cause is slowly 
going off in flesh and refuses to fatten no matter 
how much he eats ; and if his breath is foul, his 
bowels are irregular, and he seems all out of 
sorts and run down, indigestion should be sus- 
pected, due either to poor food, a weakness of 
the stomach's digestive glands or irritation set 
up by worms ; possibly a tapeworm. 

The condition of a sick dog's bowels should 
always be considered. Constipation and diar- 



Amateur's Dog Book 119 

rhea are common ailments that are responsible 
for much ill health. Besides the character and 
frequency of passages, both diseases are accom- 




INDIGESTION 



panied by straining and in some cases colicky 
pains. (See illustration.) 

"When a dog comes out of the kennel in the 
morning, stiff, sore and barely able to move, is 




CONSTIPATION 



all humped up (see illustration), and the history 
of the case shows that he was given either a hard 
run the day before, jumped into a pool while 



120 



Amateur's Dog Book 



heated, became chilled by a cold rain, or slept 
in a draught or on a bed of wet straw, rheuma- 
tism should be diagnosed. 

When the animal is found sitting on his 




RHEUMATISM 

haunches, his forelegs braced apart so as to ex- 
pand the chest, his breathing accelerated and the 
membranes of the eye dark and congested, and 




PNEUMONIA 



the history of the case is the same as that last 
given, pneumonia is indicated. 

If pressure upon the walls between the ribs 



Amateur's Dog Book 121 

causes him to flinch and groan, the pleura or 
membrane surrounding the lungs is affected and 
we have pleurisy. 

If the small veins of the eye show a yellowish 
tinge, it is an indication of a disordered liver 
and the treatment for jaundice should be ad- 
ministered. 

If a dog has been in good health and is sud- 
denly taken sick, exhibiting violent symptoms of 
pain and great distress, with attempts to vomit 
or a rigidity of the muscles, poison should be 
suspected ; particularly if he has been allowed 
to run about freely, or other dogs in the neigh- 
borhood have been similarly affected. 

CARE — DIET — NURSING. 

Absolute cleanliness, an unfailing supply of 
fresh air, a suitable temperature, plenty of fresh 
water, general comfort, and last, but not least, 
companionship, are needed by a sick dog. Lock- 
ing a dog in a darkened room or stall, or an un- 
accustomed change, will work havoc with a sick 
dog. He wants to see his master, relies upon 
his companionship and turns to him as if to a 
God, with a sublime confidence in his master's 
ability to help him in his difficulty. A word of 
approbation is often worth more than drugs, and 
he will frequently eat and take nourishment sim- 
ply to please his master. 

Dogs have sensitive stomachs, and often re- 



122 Amateur's Dog Book 

fuse to eat as a result of indigestion. This is 
nature's method of working a cure in such cases. 

If the dog is down with some febrile disorder 
that is rapidly weakening him it is important 
that he take some nourishment, and, necessarily, 
it must be of the lightest and most sustaining 
character. Medical practitioners and trained 
nurses have brought the dietary of the sick room 
to a perfection that the canine practitioner can 
study with good results. There are a number 
of predigested foods easy of preparation, nour- 
ishing and sustaining. Milk, mutton broth, 
gelatine and raw eggs are valuable foods. Boiled 
rice is easy of digestion. Raw beef or mutton, 
minced or chopped fine, fed a few teaspoonfuls 
at a time, will act in many cases as a tonic to an 
exhausted stomach, and should be resorted to, as 
there is always danger of a disordered stomach 
rebelling against long-continued liquid food. A 
few teaspoonfuls of brandy or port wine will fre- 
quently cause the stomach to retain food that 
would otherwise be rejected. It is best given in 
the form of an eggnog and fed a few teaspoon- 
fuls at a time. 

A dog will eat small quantities of food of- 
fered from his master's hand which he will re- 
fuse from a dish. Do not allow food to remain 
before him after he has declined to eat. Re- 
move it at once and offer it at some future time. 



Amateur's Dog Book 123 

DISTEMPER. 

This most dreaded of all diseases of the dog 
generally develops in the first year of life at 
a period approaching maturity or is associated 
with the cutting of the permanent teeth. The 
disease has been compared to typhoid fever in 
man, but really resembles measles, as both 
are infectious infantile disorders transmitted 
through similar channels, and one attack suc- 
cessfully overcome renders immunity from a 
second. For a great many years distemper 
was thought to be the result of kenneling in 
damp, cold or poorly ventilated buildings, de- 
fective drainage, exposure, general neglect, im- 
proper or putrescent food, and other anti-hygienic 
conditions. This is a mistake, as distemper, 
like many other diseases, is due to a specific 
germ of remarkable vitality, and unless the 
germ is present distemper never exists. The 
unhygienic conditions previously mentioned 
simply favor its propagation and dissemination, 
as dogs living in an unhealthy atmosphere have 
low powers of resistance. 

There are innumerable channels through 
which a dog may be infected with distemper. 
The germ is of remarkable vitality and is con- 
veyed through the air or on a person's clothes, 
or a dog which has already had the disease 
can convey the germ to a well dog. The use 



124 Amateur's Dog Book 

of kennel, feeding dishes or shipping crates 
that have been used previously by an affected 
animal is a common mode of inoculation. Dog 
shows are active mediums for the spread of the 
disease and when portable benching is used 
it is highly important that it should be thor- 
oughly cleansed and disinfected. 

The germ of distemper attacks dogs in dif- 
ferent ways, but the most familiar form is that 
in which the membranes of the eyes and nasal 
passages are affected, the principal symptom 
being a catarrhal discharge. Any attack of 
this kind is usually preceded by listlessness and 
lack of appetite. The patient avoids the light 
and courts solitude ; all the symptoms of a com- 
mon cold then manifest themselves, as sneez- 
ing and a dry, husky cough. Complications, 
however, frequently develop early in the dis- 
ease and result in the death of the animal. 
The symptoms mentioned are those of the ca- 
tarrhal form, and a great many people have an 
idea that this is the only form in which dis- 
temper appears, and that a dog does not have 
the disease unless there is a discharge from 
the nose. This is a mistake, for in some cases 
the virus attacks the intestines alone and in 
others the liver or the bronchial tubes. The 
action of the virus that is least understood, 
and in which the symptoms are most commonly 



Amateur's Dog Book 125 

ascribed to some other cause, is when it is 
concentrated upon the brain and nervous sys- 
tem. In this form the animal dies from col- 
lapse or develops epileptic spasms and convul- 
sions with other symptoms that are ascribed to 
worms, and accordingly the puppy is doped 
without avail, for in these cases death ensues 
in a few hours or the patient lingers along for 
a week, and a post-mortem reveals neither 
worms nor any other exciting cause, and from 
the absence of all catarrhal symptoms distem- 
per is not suspected. 

In the treament of this disease most breeders 
and owners make the mistake of neglecting the 
premonitory symptoms and do not begin to treat 
or properly care for the patient until the disease 
is fully developed. As previously stated, the 
disease develops slowly. First the dog is off his 
feed, then the cough develops, and presuming 
that the dog is otherwise well and the cough will 
pass off in a day or two, the patient is allowed 
usually to occupy his usual quarters, sleep out of 
doors and exercise in all kinds of weather, or 
dismissed from the mind until the eyes show a 
suspicious stickiness or the nose discharges a 
purulent mucus. The owner always should be 
on the lookout for distemper, and when a dog, 
at the distemper age, which has never had the 
disease presents a suspicious symptom, should 



126 Amateur's Dog Book 

lose no time in placing him in good, warm, dry, 
comfortable quarters and keeping him there 
until he has entirely recovered. If the dog is 
an inmate of a kennel to keep him company give 
him as a kennel mate some dog which has had 
the disease. The prime factor in handling this 
and other diseases is good care and nursing. 
The patient's bedding must be changed 
frequently, discharges from the nose and eyes 
carefully sponged away, and the appetite 
catered to and highly nutritious and easily 
digested foods given, such as beef tea and 
mutton broth thickened with well boiled rice, 
oatmeal, bread or dog biscuit. The feeding and 
drinking dishes must be kept scrupulously clean, 
as dirty pans will nauseate a sick animal and de- 
stroy what little appetite it may have. Scraped 
raw beef is very nutritious and can be mixed 
with gelatin, and a dog will frequently eat this 
when it will refuse everything else. If the ap- 
petite fails completely a dog can be tempted 
sometimes to eat from a spoon, and in some 
cases it has been found advisable to force nour- 
ishment on the patient in the way of beef tea 
mixed with raw egg, and in cases of great weak- 
ness stimulants should be administered in the 
form of milk punches. 

Treatment : The fact that this disease is due to 
a specific germ has been clearly established by 



Amateur's Dog Book 127 

careful scientific investigation, and fortunately 
science has discovered a specific that practically 
will cure all cases of distemper if properly ad- 
ministered and the patient is given good care and 
nursing. This remedy, Dent's Distemperine, has 
been tested so thoroughly and under such a di- 
versity of conditions that the foremost veteri- 
naries and breeders recognize it as a specific. 
Its discovery was the result of experiments con- 
ducted by veterinarians connected with the 
United States Department of Agriculture, and it 
was not offered to the public until after a great 
public test was conducted through the American 
Field and other papers, in which it cured ninety- 
eight per cent of the cases in which it was used. 
It is easily administered, no danger is connected 
with its use and there is no excuse for the loss .of 
a valuable dog from distemper when a cure can 
be so easily effected. 

There are a number of imitations of Dent's 
Distemperine on the market that are absolutely 
worthless, and should be avoided, so always in- 
sist upon your dealer supplying you with the 
genuine Dent's Distemperine, and in using it 
follow closely the directions accompanying each 
package. 

A number of complications are liable to de- 
velop from or follow a case of distemper, but 
they all result from, the germ of distemper, and 



128 Amateur's Dog Book 

Distemperine will successfully combat most of 
them. Vomiting can be prevented by carefully 
selecting those foods that the stomach digests 
most easily, but if the stomach refuses to retain 
even the most digestible of these give from two 
to four drops of Schell's strength of hydrocyanic 
acid combined with from two to eight grains of 
pepsin. 

Diarrhea must not be checked unless it is very 
severe and the discharges are tinged with blood. 
In such cases give Dent's Diarrhcea Tablets and 
feed a gruel made of toasted wheat flour and 
milk. The tannate or sub-gallate of bismuth is 
useful in these cases in doses of from ten to 
forty grains, and one dose gives satisfactory re- 
sults ; if it does not, from five to ten grains of 
chalk with from five to twenty grains of ether 
or laudanum should be administered in a little 
milk or soup. 

Epileptic fits and derangements of the nervous 
system are difficult to treat during the course of 
the disease. If they are caused by cutting the 
teeth, lance the gums ; if due to worms the sys- 
tem is generally too debilitated to stand the drugs 
necessary to remove them. If, however, the con- 
vulsions are severe, frequent and exhausting, 
they can be relieved by giving Dent's Cure for 
Fits or the bromide of potash in doses of from 
five to twenty grains four or five times a day, 



Amateur's. Dog Book 129 

either in a capsule or watery solution. If the 
excitement is extreme the bromide can be com- 
bined with from three to ten grains of chloral. 
The latter drug should be mixed with mucilage 
to prevent its irritating the throat. 

In conclusion, the owner should be cautioned 
again against exposing the dog to the cold during 
the course of the disease or convalescence. In 
some cases, after a few days' treatment, a marked 
improvement will be observed in the patient's con- 
dition, and the caretaker, correspondingly elated 
and encouraged by a spring-like day, particularly 
if the weather has been damp and stormy, will 
admit the puppy to the kennel yard for a breath 
of fresh air. The puppy, after blinking in the 
sun and stretching, often will select some 
damp spot on which the sun strikes and curl up 
for a nap. A few moments' exposure under 
these conditions are sufficient to induce serious 
conditions, and the next morning all the symp- 
toms are present or the labored breathing indi- 
cates a fatal congestion of the lungs. 

WORMS. 

Until a very recent period, worms were 
thought to be of a spontaneous origin, brought 
about by the influence of heat upon decaying 
vegetable matter, and it was and still is freely 
asserted that puppies are born with worms in- 
herited from the mother in some mysterious 



130 Amateur's Dog Book 

manner while still in utero. This has been con- 
clusively proven an error and in the minds of all 
scientists there is no question about worms 
springing from individual eggs and having a 
complete life history of their own. 

The principal species with which dog owners 
have to contend are round worms and tape- 
worms. The first named commonly infest pup- 
pies and consequently are most dreaded by 
breeders. In shape and size these worms re- 
semble common angle worms, but in color are 
lighter, being almost white or only a pale pink. 
In adult dogs these worms, when full grown, are 
from three to seven inches long ; in puppies they 
are about half that length, and as thick as com- 
mon white string. Round worms live in the 
small intestines, sometimes coiled in such masses 
as to obstruct the passage, and occasionally they 
wander into the stomach or are passed by the 
bowels. 

It is easy to understand that when one dog in 
a kennel is infected with worms, millions of eggs 
will be passed with the feces. These are scat- 
tered all over the floors, bedding, feeding and 
drinking pans. They get on the dog's coat, are 
licked off and swallowed and in numbers of ways 
gain entrance to the digestive tracts of other 
dogs, where they soon hatch out and in ten days 
are fully developed. This rapid development ac- 



Amateur's Dog Book 131 

counts for the popular belief that puppies are 
born with worms, for breeders who have held 
post-mortems on puppies scarcely ten days old 
and have found in their stomachs fully developed 
round worms could account for their presence 
in no other way. They overlooked the fact that 
the prospective mother, confined in a kennel in- 
fested with worms, would get these eggs at- 
tached to her coat, belly and breasts, and the 
young, as soon as born, would take these eggs 
into their stomachs with the first mouthfuls of 
milk. 

Symptoms : Worms are responsible for so 
much sickness and so many symptoms that it is 
practically impossible to mention all of them, 
but their presence can safely be suspected in all 
dogs which have not been recently treated for 
them, as well as in cases where the patient is 
run down, unthrifty and out of sorts. 

Other symptoms are a hot, dry nose, weak, 
watery eyes, pale lips and gums, foul breath, 
mean hacking cough and a red, scurfy, pimply 
or irritated condition of the skin and harsh, 
dry, staring coat that is constantly being shed. 
Wormy dogs sometimes have a depraved ap- 
petite and will eat dirt and rubbish. Some 
days they are ravenously hungry — the next day 
they will not eat at all ; their sleep is disturbed 
bv dreams and intestinal rumbling, the urine 
is high colored and frequently passed, bowels 



132 Amateur's Dog Book 

irregular, stomach easily unsettled, watery mu- 
cus is frequently vomited and the mouth is 
hot, sticky and full of ropy saliva. Puppies 
which are full of worms bloat easily and are 
pot-bellied. After feeding their stomachs dis- 
tend disproportionately to the amount of food 
consumed. Their bodies are also subject to 
scaly eruptions and their bowels to colicky 
pains ; they do not grow as rapidly as healthy 
puppies should and instead of playing with 
each other they curl up and sleep hour after 
hour ; they get thinner, weaker and more life- 
less from day to day and if they do not waste 
away or die in fits and convulsions with froth- 
ing at the mouth and champing of the jaws, 
grow up coarse-jointed, rickety and misshapen. 
Puppies with worms are also liable to paralysis 
of their rear limbs and on removal of the 
worms the puppies regain control of the 
affected parts. 

Prevention : The prevention of worms is a 
subject of importance to every breeder. There 
should be a continuous fight kept up against 
fleas and dirt. Use Dent's Germicide or some 
other good disinfectant freely, dash buckets of 
boiling water over the floors and walls and 
whitewash the kennels frequently. Change the 
bedding twice a week and burn all old straw, 
litter and dirt. 

Treat your puppies at two, four and six 



Amateur's Dog Book 133 

months old fcr worms. Treat all brood bitches 
for worms and give them a bath ten days be- 
fore whelping, so as to cleanse their coats of 
any eggs that may be attached to breasts or 
coats. The mixing of a teaspoonfnl of pow- 
dered charcoal with a dog's food once a day 
will tend to keep the intestines clear of the 
mucus where the eggs find a most hospitable 
home. 

Treatment : Many different drugs are recom- 
mended for the expulsion of worms, and some 
of the prescriptions handed down by the old 
school of horse doctors and dog men are more 
to be dreaded than the worms, as it is an un- 
fortunate fact that about as many dogs are 
killed by medicine as by worms. Worm reme- 
dies or prescriptions containing areca-nut, san- 
tonine, calomel, turpentine and drugs of similar 
action should never be used. As an illustration, 
areca-nut is a violent irritant and is only a little 
less severe than powdered glass. Santonine is 
a dangerous poison that frequently causes fits 
and convulsions. Calomel acts on the liver 
and not on the worms ; while turpentine se- 
verely irritates the kidneys. The safest and 
most effectual vermifuge for round worms is 
Dent's Vermifuge. It can be obtained from 
all reliable druggists in either liquid or cap- 
sule form and will be found as economical to 



134 Amateur's Dog Book 

use and more reliable -than anything the drug- 
gist can prepare. The capsules are of soft, 
elastic gelatin, the dose is accurately regu- 
lated and they are easily administered. 

TAPEWORMS. 

As their name indicates, tapeworms are made 
up of flat joints, or sections, half an inch or less 
in length, that resemble pieces of white tape. 
These sections will sometimes be found scat- 
tered about the kennel in the feces or hanging 
from the anus of an affected dog. There are a 
number of species of tapeworms. The head 
of the tapeworm, which is the smallest part and 
is scarcely larger than a thread, has a blind or 
sucker mouth by which it attaches itself to the 
intestines and through which it draws its nour- 
ishment. The tapeworm does not lay eggs, 
as the round worm does, but reproduces itself 
by the segments that form the body. These 
segment? are smallest at the head and as they 
recede gradually increase in size and are re- 
placed by new segments, until finally they be- 
come full grown or ripe. When this stage is 
reached they detach themselves from the body 
of the worm and are passed in the feces. 

The symptoms which indicate tapeworms 
are in some cases similar to those of round 
worms, but often they are indefinite. Their 
presence, however, may be suspected in adult 



Amateur's Dog Book 135 

dogs with voracious appetites which remain 
unthrifty and out of sorts, or in dogs affected 
with chorea, partial paralysis or nervous affec- 
tions, and those which are generally out of 
sorts. A dog presenting these symptoms, which 
has been treated for round worms without re- 
sults or been given tonics without improve- 
ment in his condition, should be treated for 
tapeworms with Dent's Tapeworm Caps*ules. 
These are easily administered, very effective 
and much more convenient and safer to use 
than the old-fashioned tapeworm remedies, 
such as areca-nut, powdered glass, turpentine 
and oil of male fern that necessitates starving 
and physicing the dog. 

It must be understood in treating for tape- 
worm that if the head is not removed it will 
soon grow another worm, and for this reason 
it is sometimes necessary to repeat the treat- 
ment. 

CHOREA. 

Chorea is the most distressing nervous com- 
plaint dog owners are familiar with. It is due 
to an involuntary nervous discharge of the 
motor cells controlling certain muscles. The 
essential pathology of these more or less con- 
stant muscular twitchings has baffled all scien- 
tific investigation. 

The most satisfactory theory is that the brain 
cells controlling a certain muscle or set of 



136 Amateur's Dog Book 

muscles are so weakened by the poison of dis- 
temper or some other cause as to induce them 
to send out muscular impulses without natural 
mental impulse or will power. 

There is a form of chorea, due to a dis- 
turbed nervous system, induced by blows or 
injuries or due to the presence of intestinal para- 
sites which have deranged the digestive organs. 
This form of chorea is generally curable. The 
form which follows distemper is not so amen- 
able to treatment. 

The symptoms are so prominent and char- 
acteristic that there is no mistaking the disease, 
and the peculiar involuntary twitching of the 
muscles once seen is never forgotten. The en- 
tire body may be affected ; generally it is only 
one set of muscles, those of the foreleg or of 
the neck and shoulders, in which case the head 
bobs up and down in a most helpless manner. 
Where the hindlegs are affected the dog will 
suddenly drop one of the limbs from the hip 
downward, as if there were an entire loss of 
strength and power. This is particularly no- 
ticeable if it attempts to jump on a chair or 
table, for after one or two attempts it falls 
on its side or in a heap, completely helpless. 

The top of the head is often affected and 
twitches and throbs in a most peculiar manner, 
and the jerking is commonly observable about 
the muscles of the eyelids, lips and face. In 



Amateur's Dog Book 137 

severe cases of chorea the general nealth is 
affected, and the animal shows signs of suffer- 
ing, probably due to anxiety and appreciation 
of its helplessness. In mild cases it does not 
affect the animal's general health and some field 
dogs have it all their lives without affecting 
their usefulness. The owner, however, is an- 
noyed by the constant muscular movements and 
is always anxious to effect a cure. Some cases 
are quiet during sleep, others are worse. 

Treatment. — The disease occurs in the best 
regulated kennels, but dogs properly treated 
for distemper with Dent's Distemperine are 
less liable to the disease than those which are 
doped with old-fashioned remedies. 

In a case of chorea the first thing to do is 
to look after the animal's general health. See 
that the bowels act promptly, and this is ac- 
complished best by dieting and the feeding of 
foods possessing laxative properties and not 
by resorting to physics. If there is the slight- 
est suspicion of worms, treat for them, as they 
torment the nervous system beyond all measure 
and are the cause of many attacks. 

If there is a tendency to constipation use 
well-boiled oatmeal, mutton broths with stale 
bread, beef, well boiled, or raw lean beef, 
chopped. Give Dent's Pepsinated Condition 
Pills after each meal to assist the stomach 



138 Amateur's Dog Book 

in the process of digestion. If there is much 
debility and weakness give emulsion of cod- 
liver oil in doses of from one teaspoonful to 
two or three teaspoonfuls three times a day. 

This disease is so slow in yielding to medi- 
cine that many valuable dogs are given up as 
incurable which could be cured if their owners 
only would persist in the treatment and not be 
discouraged too easily. For the great majority 
of cases Dent's Chorea Remedy is the most suc- 
cessful treatment that can be recommended. 
It is easily administered and adapted to dogs 
of all ages and sizes and has cured many ap- 
parently hopeless cases. Of course, if admin- 
istered at the first appearance of the disease, 
the chances for recovery are much greater 
than in old or neglected cases. 

COUGHS. 

In themselves, coughs, no matter of what 
character, are not a disease, but simply an 
evidence of some other derangement of the 
system. To decide what particular disease is 
indicated by the cough is, in some cases, very 
difficult, for in many cases annoying coughs are 
the only symptoms that animals otherwise in the 
best of health present. It is quite important 
that all coughs be given attention, for the first 
symptom of many dangerous diseases is a simple 



Amateur's Dog Book 139 

cough that, if treated in time, might prevent 
a serious illness. 

Causes. — Most coughs are associated with 
some derangement of the respiratory organs 
and air passages. They may be produced, how- 
ever, by a small bone or other hard substance 
sticking in the throat. Worms are responsible 
for some coughs through reflex actions, as well 
as by inducing accumulations of mucus. 

Symptoms. — Coughs vary in character, as do 
the diseases of which, in many cases, they are 
the most prominent symptom. The cough of 
distemper has a peculiar husky, hollow sound. 
It loosens as the secretions of mucus become 
abundant and the huskiness disappears. It is 
sometimes accompanied by sniffling, retching 
and vomiting. In the case of common colds 
the cough is slight and generally soft and 
moist. In laryngitis or sore throat the cough 
is hoarse, brassy, and can be induced by slightly 
choking the upper part of the throat. It is 
accompanied by more or less pain in swallowing 
and in some cases difficulty in breathing. In 
cases of acute bronchitis the cough at first is 
short, dry and dull. It soon becomes easier 
and looser and can be excited by pressure on 
the chest. In chronic bronchitis the cough is 
hacking and persistent and continues week 
after week without chansre in character or 



140 Amateur's Dog Book 

severity. In pneumonia the cough is at first 
short, dry and intermittent. Later it becomes 
more frequent and the matter brought up is of 
a reddish tint like iron rust. This is consid- 
ered diagnostic of the disease. In pleurisy the 
cough is short, dry, hacking and very painful. 
In asthma the cough is wheezy, the breathing 
jerky and the entire appearance is that of 
suffocation. 

Treatment. — All coughs do not yield to the 
same treatment. Most of the chronic coughs fol- 
lowing colds, distemper, pneumonia and bronchi- 
tis can be cured by Dent's Distemperine. Dogs 
afflicted with hacking, gagging stomach coughs 
should first be treated for worms with Dent's 
Vermifuge and then have their systems toned up 
by a course of treatment with Dent's Pepsinated 
Condition Pills. 

DISEASES OF THE EYE. 

Some affections of the eye arise from debility, 
others are due to injuries. Ingrowing lashes or 
the presence of irritating bodies are common 
causes. 

Symptoms. — Increased sensitiveness to the 
light ; dimness of the eyeball ; an excessive flow 
of tears from the eyes, running down over the 
cheeks ; from the corner of the eye a discharge 
which thickens and becomes purulent, gluing to- 
gether the swollen lids. Sometimes at the roots 



Amateur's Dog Book 141 

of the hair at the edge of the lids there appear 
small pustules ; these break and discharge mat- 
ter that dries into crusts, matting the hair, gluing 
the lids together and destroying the lashes. 

Treatment. — Do not expose the animal un- 
necessarily to the light ; bathe the eye every 
hour with warm water to which Dent's Germi- 
cide has been added, one-half teaspoonful to the 
pint of water ; soften and remove all accumula- 
tions of the discharge by inserting a small 
wedge-shaped piece of sponge between the lids. 
Restrict the diet, give Dent's Blood Purifying 
Pills three times a day, and use Dent's Eye 
Lotion several times a day until all inflammation 
subsides, and the eye becomes clear and bright. 

GOITER. 

Bronchocele and Goiter are terms applied to 
enlargements of the thyroid glands that are lo- 
cated in the neck on each side of the windpipe 
about half way down to the chest. The cause of 
these enlargements is not known ; some appear 
overnight, others are slower about developing. 
Generally they are free from redness or pain and 
to the touch are soft and elastic. Occasionally 
they are very hot and painful and increase in 
size so rapidly as to interfere with breathing and 
the patient dies from suffocation. This affection 
is very common among puppies and is not tin- 



142 Amateur's Dog Book 

usual among old dogs. They are unsightly af- 
fairs, dangerous in some cases, and should be 
removed. 

Treatment. — Dent's Goiter Cure consists of 
both internal and external treatment, is easily ap- 
plied and will practically cure all of the cases on 
which it is used. 

INDIGESTION. 

Dogs have powerful organs of digestion, but 
the heavy task they put upon them in the way 
of gorging upon all kinds of food, the reckless- 
ness they show in swallowing stones, coal, dust 
and bones, and the carelessness of owners in 
feeding frequently result in a loss of tone and 
power of the dog's stomach, and render it un- 
able to perform its important function in the 
process of digestion, and the food eaten, in- 
stead of being made fit for the nourishment of 
the body, acts as a heavy load and irritant to 
the stomach and produces characteristic symp- 
toms, as well as disorders and diseases of the 
bowels, such as diarrhea or constipation. 

Symptoms. — The appetite is irregular, whole- 
some food is refused or eaten mincingly and 
slobbered about, and a preference is shown for 
garbage and indigestible matter. There is gen- 
erally considerable thirst, and the food taken 
into the stomach is frequently vomited in a 
more or less altered condition and mixed with 



Amateur's Dog Book 143 

slime and mucus. If it remains in the stomach 
it ferments and generates gas, which distends 
the abdomen and causes pain and uneasiness. 
The breath is foul and offensive, the gums in- 
flamed, the tongue coated and the bowels de- 
ranged. The animal is dull, listless and gener- 
ally out of sorts. 

Treatment. — Carefully regulating the diet and 
attention to sanitary conditions will effect a 
cure in ordinary attacks. If there is much 
pain and systemic disturbance, remedies must 
be administered. If the stomach is full and 
there is gaseous distension, vomiting can be 
induced by giving two teaspoonfuls of the wine 
of ipecac as a first dose, and a teaspoonful 
every ten minutes thereafter until the stomach 
is emptied. On the contrary, if severe vomit- 
ing exists, ten or fifteen grains of the subnitrate 
of bismuth may be given to settle the stomach. 
If there is a state of constipation or diarrhea 
the remedies that are recommended for such 
conditions should be administered. The patient 
should be fed an easily digested diet, such as raw 
lean beef chopped fine, gelatine, meat soups 
and stale whole wheat bread, boiled rice and 
fresh milk, and be given one of Dent's Pepsi- 
nated Condition Pills three times a day, as they 
assist in the digestion of foods and stimulate 
and tone up the organs of digestion. 



144 Amateur's Dog Book 

CONSTIPATION. 

Constipation is an ailment common to all 
dogs and is due generally either to neglect or 
ignorance upon the part of the owner. Regular 
exercise and discrimination in feeding will keep 
any dog's bowels in good condition, and thereby 
determine the condition of the animal, for 
biliousness, disorders of the liver and kidneys 
and the attendant conditions of foul breath, 
loss of appetite, languor, rough coat and gen- 
eral unthriftiness are frequently due to the fact 
that there has been absorbed into the system 
certain poisonous products thrown off by the 
refuse matter that has for several days been 
lodged in the large intestine. 

Causes. — The fecal matter in the intestines 
becomes hard, dry and lumpy, unless there is 
an unfailing supply of water for drinking pur- 
poses. Confinement in restricted quarters or 
chaining brings about a state of the nervous 
system that manifests itself by costiveness. If 
proper opportunity is not given dogs to relieve 
themselves fecal matter accumulates in the 
lower bowels and brings about paralysis of that 
part. A concentrated diet, like one of all meat, 
has not sufficient residue to properly stimulate 
the bowels. Wheat flour is constipating. 
Graham flour, oat and corn meal are not, but 
on account of the excessive residue will, if con- 



Amateur's Dog Book 145 

tinued too long, overtax the bowels. Veg- 
etables, such as cabbages, greens and onions, 
have a laxative action on the bowels on ac- 
count of certain medicinal elements, as well as 
the large amount of water they contain. 

Symptoms. — Continued straining and the 
passage of hard, dry, lumpy matter, congested 
eyes, loss of appetite, coated tongue, offensive 
breath and a listless, out-of-sorts appearance. 
As the feces get pressed into the lower bowels 
in a compact mass, colicky pains occur and the 
belly becomes hard and distended. 

Treatment. — The first thing to do is to un- 
load the bowels, not by strong purgatives that 
will only complicate matters, but by an injec- 
tion -either of soapsuds or a teaspoonful of 
glycerine. A dose of olive oil should then 
be given to clear out and lubricate the in- 
testines. After this, if the patient is fat, over- 
fed and his trouble due largely to a lack of 
exercise, Dent's Laxative Pills may be given, 
the dose being from one-half pill for a small 
dog to three for a large one, at night. 

In all cases the cure must be looked for 
through a change in the diet and system of 
management. See that your dog's supply of 
fresh water is unfailing and that he is exer- 
cised daily. If he has been fed largely on meat 
and wheat bread, feed with the meat a quantity 
of freshly chopped cabbage, spinach, dandelions 



146 Amateur's Dog Book 

or beet tops. Substitute oatmeal, cornmeal or 
graham bread for the wheat flour. By a varia- 
tion of these different foods and giving a course 
of treatment with Dent's Pepsinated Condition 
Pills, that will tone up the dog's system, his 
habits will become regular and his general 
health and appearance improved. 

DIARRHEA. 

This disease, of common occurrence among 
young puppies and old, overfed dogs, refers to 
abnormal changes in the character and frequency 
of the passages of the bowels. In this disorder, 
the membranes of the bowels are not diseased, 
but simply pass off matter that irritates them. 
When the bowels themselves become inflamed 
and ulcerated the disorder is known as dysentery, 
and it is obvious that a simple attack of diar- 
rhea, if not properly attended to, is liable to run 
into the much more serious case of dysentery. 

Causes. — Errors in diet and indigestion are the 
common causes. The eating of decayed and 
irritating food, often brought about by leaving 
stale food over from one meal to another, foul 
water and injuries caused by blows or kicks will 
bring on this disorder. The retained excretions 
of constipation also throw off poisons that will 
unduly stimulate the bowels. A severe chilling 
and cold that forces the blood to the intestines 
will also set up diarrhea. Worms are a com- 



Amateur's Dog Book 147 

mon cause, and among puppies changes in the 
milk of the nursing mother or the abrupt change 
to cow's milk are frequent causes. Diarrhea is 
also brought on by the injudicious use of salts, 
calomel and other drugs. 

Symptoms. — These are of course evident and 
indicate the severity of the attack by their char- 
acter and frequency. In an acute attack, vomit- 
ing of offensive matter accompanies the loose, 
watery discharge from the bowels. Blood is 
sometimes present as a result of piles or a con- 
gestion of the membranes, as well as small 
amounts of mucus. In a simple attack of 
diarrhea, the general" health suffers but little, 
but if not checked, the weakness becomes exces- 
sive, and among puppies the mortality is high. 

Treatment. — As the disease is simply nature's 
effort to throw off irritating matter, it should be 
assisted by giving a dose of olive oil that will 
empty the intestines. The diet should then be 
attended to. Feed milk, three parts, mixed with 
lime water, one part, and a milk porridge made 
by browning wheat flour and then mixing it with 
milk. Raw eggs are nourishing and soothing. 
They can be given alone or mixed with beef 
broth. Bismuth, in doses of from ten to thirty 
grains, three or four times a day, is sometimes 
useful, but generally all that will be necessary 
to do is to attend to the diet as previously 



148 Amateur's Dog Book 

described and give Dent's Diarrhea Pills, as 
they have a soothing action on the intestines and 
will check the discharge and regulate the bowels. 
Where worms are the cause, and their presence 
is always to be suspected, particularly if the 
nature of the discharge is variable, sometimes 
lumpy and covered by mucus, froth and small air 
bubbles, their expulsion must be accomplished 
by suitable vermifuges. 

Diarrhea in young puppies can generally be 
cured by changing the diet. Feed less milk, and 
for it substitute beef tea or wheat bread soaked 
in blood gravy. If there is much pain, give five 
or ten drops of paregoric. Precipitated chalk, in 
doses of one-fourth teaspoonful for small puppies 
and one-half teaspoonful for puppies of two 
months and over, is a harmless and useful 
remedy in these cases, and the dose may be re- 
peated every two or three hours. 

MANGE. 

This disease, like itch in man, is due to the 
presence of a small insect which burrows or tun- 
nels through the skin in all directions and draws 
its nourishment from it. In the canals formed, 
the female deposits her eggs, which hatch out in 
about two weeks. The young then continue the 
burrowing operations of their parents, occasion- 
ing the most intolerable itching. Mange is a 
local affection, but the uneasiness and loss of 



Amateur's Dog Book 149 

sleep caused the animal by the continued scratch- 
ing and biting, in its efforts to allay the pain and 
itching, have a very debilitating effect upon the 
system and transform the healthy, sleek-coated 
pet into one of the most loathsome and pitiful of 
objects in a comparatively short time. The 
disease generally makes its appearance first at the 
elbows, under the forelegs, on the chest, fore- 
head, base of the ears, or root of the tail, and 
then spreads all over the body. 

Causes. — This affection, the commonest of all 
skin diseases, is invariably the result of contact 
with a dog or some other animal similarly af- 
fected, or is contracted by occupying the yard, 
kennel or shipping crate of an animal so affected. 

Treatment. — In the treatment of mange and 
all other skin diseases, absolute cleanliness must 
be insisted upon. Upon a dog showing signs of 
having this affection, it should be immediately 
removed from its quarters, the bedding burned, 
and the entire kennel washed and disinfected 
with a solution of Dent's Germicide. The dog's 
entire body should then be washed in luke- 
warm water, to which Dent's Germicide has 
been added in the proportion of two table- 
spoonfuls to the quart of water, using Dent's 
Shampoo to soften and break up all scabs and 
scales. 

Apply Dent's Mange Cure to all affected parts, 



150 Amateur's Dog Book 

and in bad cases all over the body. Repeat the 
application every day for four or five days, then 
wash clean with lukewarm water and Dent's 
Germicide, as previously described. Repeat the 
application for another week or ten days, and 
again wash, and the skin will be in a healthy 
condition. 

Dent's Blood Purifying and Cooling Pills 
should be given three times a day, so as to thor- 
oughly cleanse the system. If the patient is a 
small house pet, Dent's Skin Cure can be used 
instead of the mange cure, as it is especially pre- 
pared for such cases, being colorless, odorless, 
and does not stain. It is very soothing to the 
skin, stimulates the growth of the hair and is in 
every way a desirable and satisfactory cure. 

ECZEMA. 

Similar in appearance to mange, but different 
in its origin, this disease is due to an impure con- 
dition of the system, and not to a burrowing 
parasite. 

Causes. — Lack of exercise ; dirty, damp ken- 
nels ; a too-heating diet ; fleas, lice and local 
irritation ; indigestion and neglect. 

Symptoms. — The belly, elbows, inside of 
thighs and back of the forelegs are the parts first 
affected ; the hair sacks or follicles are princi- 
pally the seat of the disease. These become in- 
flamed, and when the animal affected is white 
the hair at the roots has a reddish, rusty look. 



Amateur's Dog Book 151 

If prompt means are not taken to check 
the disease, the inflammation runs on rapidly, 
the entire skin and subcutaneous tissue are 
involved and the hair drops out from the af- 
fected follicles ; purulent matter now exudes and 
pustules form, that break open, and the matter 
from them runs together and forms scabs, that 
crack open and bleed, and the animal'becomes an 
exceedingly pitiful and loathsome object, and 
emits a very disagreeable odor. 

This disease, while it is not nearly so con- 
tagious as sarcoptic mange, is unfortunately more 
difficult to cure. 

Treatment. — To insure a radical cure of this 
disease, internal treatment is of fully as much 
consequence as external applications, and in ob- 
stinate cases both must be persevered in for some 
time. To cleanse the s\ stem and purify the 
blood. Dent's Blood Purifying Pills should be 
given three times a day, the skin carefully 
washed, and the Mange or Skin Cure applied as 
in mange. 

FITS. 

Fits and convulsions are of commoner occur- 
rence in dogs than in other domestic animals be- 
cause the nervous organization of the dog is 
more highly developed and in every way more 
sensitive. 



152 Amateur's Dog Book 

Causes. — These are various, such as excite- 
ment, worms, teething, exhaustion, overheating, 
indigestion and epilepsy. 

Symptoms. — Fits, as a rule, come on suddenly ; 
a slight quivering of the muscles of the face, an 
anxious look around, a few staggering steps, and 
the animal falls upon its side and loses conscious- 
ness ; the face becomes distorted ; the limbs 
work violently, and there is a continual champing 
of the jaws as well as a frothy mucus coming 
from the mouth, and the head, limbs and body 
jerk violently; the convulsions gradually become 
less and less, though sometimes the animal comes 
out of them suddenly and appears dazed and 
scared, and will then attempt to hide in some out- 
of-the-way place. Fits usually last from five to 
fifteen minutes, sometimes following each other 
until death brings relief. 

Treatment. — During the convulsions, the body 
should be kept warm and the head cold — by ap- 
plying ice to it or bathing it in cold water. Give 
Dent's Cure for Fits, which will relieve the pa- 
tient, after which the cause should be sought and 
removed. If from worms, use Dent's Vermi- 
fuge ; if due to teething, remove the milk teeth, 
when loose, and lance the gums where the second 
teeth are attempting to force their way through ; 
if the result of indigestion or a weak stomach, 
apply the remedies suggested for the cure of in- 
digestion. 



Amateur's Dog Book 153 

WARTS. 

The condition of the system that gives rise to 
warts is not well understood, and they appear 
upon the healthiest dogs quite as readily as upon 
those which are debilitated or unthrifty. The 
lips, gums, tongue and entire mucous membrane 
of the mouth are frequently affected. Their ap- 
pearance is objectionable and it is advisable to 
remove them. 

A few scattering warts can be clipped off with 
a pair of sharp, curved surgeon's scissors, and 
the stumps touched with nitrate of silver to check 
the bleeding. 

Touching with a hot iron is one of the safest 
and surest methods of removing warts, and the 
pain occasioned by this operation is not severe. 

When there are a large number of warts and 
the mucous membrane is covered with them, or 
they appear in large bunches, they are not so 
easily disposed of. Too many of them must not 
be removed at any one time, no matter by what 
means, or severe inflammation will be set up, 
that may be extremely difficult to control. There- 
fore in these cases clip off only a few at a time 
and then sponge the mouth with a solution of 
Den't Germicide one part to water one hundred 
parts. 

Large warts may be removed by ligating them 
with a silk cord or catgut close to the skin. 



154 Amateur's Dog Book 

The perverted state of the skin which gives 
rise to warts can generally be corrected by using 
Dent's Blood Purifying and Cooling Pills, and 
it is advisable to give all warty dogs a course of 
treatment with them, so that there will not be a 
recurrence of the excrescences. 

CANKER OF THE EAR. 

The ear is the most complicated structure in 
the body and subject to a variety of disorders, 
the largest number of which are generally consid- 
ered under the one head of canker — a most pain- 
ful disease that if neglected will result in 
deafness. 

Water dogs are most frequently affected, not 
only by water gaining entrance to the ear, but 
by the shocks to the system following the ex- 
posure they undergo, bringing on an unsettled 
condition of the digestive system, skin and blood. 

Thorns, injuries, pulling the dog's ears, accu- 
mulation of wax and foreign substances entering 
the ear are also responsible to a degree for these 
ailments. Attention to the dog's general health 
and condition, judicious selection of food and the 
treatment of all intestinal disorders, with atten- 
tion to all those details that will keep the blood 
pure and the stomach healthy, will be found the 
real secret for the prevention as well as cure of 
affections of the ear. 

There is also a condition of the ear confounded 



Amateur's Dog Book 155 

with canker in which the edges of the ear become 
hot, dry and scaly and the roots of the hair are 
covered with a whitish scurf. The dog is con- 
tinually shaking his head or scratching at his 
ears to relieve the irritation. These cases should 
be treated for what they are, that is, a form of 
eczema, and the scurf is the eggs of lice. The 
ears sho'uld be washed carefully with Dent's Dog 
Soap and soaked in warm water until all scurf 
and scales are removed, then carefully dried and 
Dent's Mange Cure applied to the affected parts. 

In another class of cases, as a result of injuries 
or inflammation, the entire flap of the ear be- 
comes greatly swollen, very feverish and tender 
and a quantity of fluid forms between the carti- 
lage and the skin of the ear. These cases are 
difficult to treat. The swellings are lanced easily 
and the fluid drawn off, but the ear fills up again 
in the course of a few hours. The best treat- 
ment is to insert on the inside of the flap a seton 
of tape, from above downward, which will keep 
the wound open until the discharge ceases, when 
it can be withdrawn and the openings treated 
by dusting iodoform over them twice a day. 

When the membrane lining the external pas- 
sage of the ear is inflamed and otherwise affected 
we have external canker of the ear. At first there 
is a redness and slight swelling, which is seldom 
noticed, or no importance is attached to it. The 



156 Amateur's Dog Book 

dog- will shake his head and show uneasiness. 
This is followed by ulceration and suppuration, a 
black, offensive discharge develops, which may 
extend both ways. Sometimes it runs back into 
the head and involves the ear drum and the small 
bones of the ear, producing internal canker, but 
more often it runs outward and involves the 
outer passages, and we have external canker. 
The ear will be found red and swollen, the 
exudation dries and forms scabs, pus is generally 
present and there are numbers of bright red 
spots on the inside of the flaps and along the ear 
passage. The dog holds his head on one side and 
shakes it violently as though to get something 
out of it, and will slide along the floor on his 
ear or dig at it with his paw. The flaps of the 
ear become bruised and ulcerated and the tips 
become cracked and split and are very sore. 

Treatment. — The general health should be at- 
tended to first. If the disease is chronic, but the 
animal's digestion is good, cod-liver oil emulsion 
four times a day is useful. If the system is de- 
ranged and the blood is out of order, and in most 
cases it is, it is highly important that the system 
be thoroughly cleansed and the blood cooled and 
purified by giving Dent's Blood Purifying Pills 
three times a day. If the dog is troubled with 
worms, take measures to secure their expulsion. 

Cleanliness of the parts is, of course, im- 



Amateur's Dog Book 157 

portant, but too much washing and neglecting- to 
dry the ear properly will retard healing. The 
ear should be washed carefully with lukewarm 
water and Castile soap, and, if necessary, use a 
small syringe to soften and remove all hardened 
wax. After washing, dry the ear carefully and 
do not wash again until it is necessary to do so 
from an accumulation of wax or purulent dis- 
charges. It must be borne in mind that too much 
washing at this stage is very harmful. The ear 
should be carefully dried with soft cotton, and 
Dent's Canker Lotion injected into the ear pas- 
sage three times a day. 

If the outer passages and flap of the ear are 
affected apply Dent's Skin Cure twice a day. 

In treating canker of the ear have an assistant 
take the dog between his knees and turn the head 
to one side, so that Dent's Canker Lotion can be 
carefully and slowly injected into the ear. 



i- iC: S. 



